Section 3
Pamplona to Logroño
This glorious stretch of the Camino takes us from Pamplona, the capital of Navarre, to Logroño, the capital of La Rioja. It’s about 95 kilometres and takes four or five days. Early on, you climb over the Hill of Forgiveness, then descend into the farmlands of Navarre and onto the vineyards of Rioja. You might get swept up in a bull run, pluck grapes as you wander through sun-drenched vineyards, pour a glass of wine from a fountain, walk on ancient Roman roads, or spend an evening hopping between tapas bars , sorry, meant to say pintxo.
Pamplona
700.5 KM to Santiago
Like entering Pamplona, leaving it is more pleasant than some of the other cities on the Camino. You don’t pass through any industrial zones. Instead, you follow an urban path past the university campus, and then out onto a quiet road, with a broad hard shoulder for about 4 km until you reach Cizur Menor.
One bit of advice: cities can be tricky to navigate. The yellow arrows are easy to miss among all the other signs. Coming in is fine; just follow any signs to the city centre or the cathedral. But leaving can be harder. What I usually do is pick a small village on the edge of town, open Google Maps with walking directions, and follow them. It will likely follow the Camino route anyway, and once you’re out of the city, the arrows are easy to pick up again.
Cizur Menor
695.5 KM to Santiago
Cizur Menor is a small modern suburban village with several bars and shops. A well-known albergue run by the Order of Malta sits at the entrance to the village, right across from the Romanesque church of San Miguel Arcángel. The Albergue is about €7 a night, and if it is full, they’ll offer you a bed inside the church. The albergue is popular with pilgrims who prefer a quieter night than what they’d find in Pamplona. I’ve never stayed there myself. Pamplona’s energy has always pulled me in, but hopefully I will get to stay here next time.
Zariquiegui
689.5 KM to Santiago
After Cizur Menor, the countryside unfolds once more. The path turns to track again, and you begin a steady climb. It starts gently, leading up to the small hamlet of Zariquiegui. There’s a simple Romanesque church and a little shop that sells ice cream, well worth a stop.
There is also a small private albergue located above the shop, Albergue San Andrés. It looks charming and straightforward. It’s a great place if you want somewhere quiet. Perfect if you plan to set out early and catch the sunrise over Alto del Perdón.
By now, you’ve probably noticed my frequent references to the movie The Way. Eagle-eyed fans might recognise Zariquiegui as the spot where Joost and Sarah first meet. She’s sitting on the wall of the church, smoking, when he walks up.
Alto Perdon
687.1 KM to Santiago
From the village, the path narrows and becomes steeper. Continue up. I once had a family of wild boar pass right in front of me, mother, father, and the young ones, moving nonchalantly across the track. They didn’t pay me any attention, just kept moving along.
As you climb, the views back over Pamplona are epic. After about 30 minutes, you will reach the top of Alto del Perdón, the Hill of Forgiveness. At the summit stands the striking metal silhouette sculpture of pilgrims walking through time. Monumento al Peregrino is life-size, modern, and unforgettable. Installed in the 1990s, it’s one of the most photographed spots on the Camino. The inscription reads: “Where the path of the wind meets the path of the stars.”
There is also a monument of standing stones dedicated to victims of the Spanish Civil War from the local area, it’s worth stopping here for a moment of reflection before you start your descent.
Utegra
679 KM to Santiago
The hike down from Alto del Perdón is treacherous, steep, rocky, and hard on the knees. Take your time. After about an hour, the trail flattens out and runs through almond groves and wheat fields.
I always get a strange feeling at this point, like I’ve finally crossed into Spain. I don’t know why. Maybe it’s the warmth; this stretch has its own microclimate. Maybe it’s the smell of the almond trees. But something changes. Something settles. It feels like Spain proper now. After a couple of kilometres, you reach the small village of Uterga, where you’ll find a few albergues and a cafe.
Eunate
683.6 KM to Santiago
Continue toward Muruzábal, where the path splits. You can go straight to Obanos, about 2 km ahead, or take the detour left to the chapel of Santa María de Eunate. I’d say 100%, go to Eunate.
The walk there is so quiet. Empty roads. You likely won’t see anyone. The Romanesque church is incredible, built in 1170, and said to be linked to the Templars. It’s full of symbolism. Thirty-three arches. A hundred doors. Eight sides. Sacred numbers for Christians, Jews, and Muslims alike. Enough material for Dan Brown to base a whole novel on.
Take your time. You might have it all to yourself. It’s one of my favourite places on the Camino. The walk back to rejoin the main trail is just as good. Late afternoon light, probably just you and the butterflies.
Obanos
683.5 KM to Santiago
After a few kilometres of quiet walking, the detour to Eunate rejoins the main path again at Obanos. There’s a fine church here, Iglesia de San Juan Bautista. You’ll hear many legends along the Camino, and this is one of them.
Guillermo, a duke from Aquitaine, walked to Santiago with his sister, Felicia. When they returned, she chose a religious life and went into seclusion. Angry that she turned away from the royal life, he killed her. But the guilt hit him hard. He made another pilgrimage to Santiago. When he returned, he gave up everything and became a hermit in Obanos. He’s buried in the church.
Puente La Reina
676.6 KM to Santiago
Continue on for another 2km to Puente la Reina, the Bridge of the Queen. A classic Camino town, and a popular place to stop for the night.
The town has plenty of places to stay. As you enter, you’ll see Hotel Jakue on the left. A little further on is the municipal albergue, Albergue de los Peregrinos. Also, if you keep going through the town, cross the bridge for which the town is named, and take a right, you’ll find a popular albergue there with a swimming pool Albergue De Peregrinos Santiago Apostol. It’s a great spot in summer.
While you’re in town, stop into the Iglesia de Santiago. It’s just past the municipal albergue on the right. After that, find a spot on the main street for lunch or dinner; outdoor tables are busy with pilgrims and locals. It’s a bit chaotic, but the energy is great.
Many of the villages and towns along the next stretch hold traditional bull-running events, called encierros. These usually involve young bulls or cows (vaquillas) running through the streets. It’s not Pamplona, but they have great local charm. In Puente la Reina, the encierros happen every year from July 24th to 30th, during the feast of Santiago. They also run again on the last weekend of September.
They also hold a jazz festival every August, with open-air concerts under the bridge every Saturday evening for the month. The setting is magical.
Finally, yes, if you’re thinking of The Way, this might look like the bridge where Tom loses his backpack. But that scene was filmed off the Camino. Still, this bridge is the real deal, stone, medieval, beautiful.
Cirauqui
669 KM to Santiago
Leave Puente la Reina by crossing the old bridge and say goodbye to your trusty companion, the Arga River. You’ve been criss-crossing it now for days, but this is where your paths split. The Agra heads east to the Mediterranean, and you’re heading west, toward the Atlantic.
Take a left after the bridge and follow the waymarks out of town. The Camino soon leaves the road behind and turns back to a dirt track, winding through soft hills and open countryside.
After about 5 kilometres, you’ll reach the small village of Mañeru. The Camino takes you through town, but skips the church, which is a rare occurrence on the Camino. Might be the only time on the whole route that happens. Feels like the locals just want to funnel you straight through town and out the other side. There’s one albergue here, but not much else.
Keep going, the path stays properly rural, lined with olive trees, vineyards, and golden wheat fields. It’s truly one of the prettiest stretches on the whole Camino. That said, I once got caught here in the worst storm of my life. The sky split open, lightning hitting the ground all around me. There was nowhere to hide, so I lay flat on the ground, face down, praying. I remember thinking, “Well, if I get fried here, at least I’ll be famous. Maybe they’ll put up a little statue and future pilgrims will come and pay respect.😊”
Up ahead, Cirauqui appears on a hilltop, surrounded by vineyards. Proper postcard stuff, absolutely stunning. As you climb into the village, you’ll actually be walking on a Roman road that’s over 2,000 years old. One of those “wow” moments.
The town’s old Basque name means “nest of vipers,” and the Codex Calixtinus once warned pilgrims to avoid it. But today, it’s one of the most charming spots on the route.
Cirauqui has just one albergue, Casa Maralotx, and it’s one of my favourites. The name, funnily enough, means “bad blacksmith.” They put on a great communal dinner in a medieval stone cellar. The food’s hearty and straightforward, and there’s always plenty of local wine. It’s run by Juanma and Paloma, a lovely couple who really make you feel at home. This place is really special. It sets the bar high for other albergues. I would definitely bookmark this one and reserve it in advance.
Lorca
663.5 KM to Santiago
From here, the Camino continues on an old Roman road. It rises and falls all the way to Lorca. You’ll cross a surviving Roman bridge. 2,000 years of history under your feet. Soak it in as you walk.
Lorca sits on a small hill, facing the open valley toward Estella. It’s a tranquil place, good for a peaceful evening. There are a couple of albergues and a café in Albergue La Bodega del Camino.
Villatuerta
668.8 KM to Santiago
The walk from Lorca to Estella is about 12 kilometres. The trail rolls gently through farmland, olive groves, and open country. You pass through a few small villages, Villatuerta and Ayegui.
Estella
654.9 KM to Santiago
Continue walking to Estella. Estella is a proper town with shops, cafés, bakeries, and all the buzz that comes with it. After the quiet of the countryside, it feels like you’re back in the busy world again.
The town sits on the fast-flowing Ega River, with stone bridges and narrow lanes that twist through old buildings. There are plenty of albergues to choose from. The municipal is central and reliable. Agora is modern. A Santiago is smaller but very friendly.
Estella has some impressive churches. Iglesia de San Pedro de la Rúa sits above the town, featuring a fine cloister and excellent views. Iglesia del Santo Sepulcro has a striking Gothic façade. You’re walking through real history here, and it’s easy to feel it. Estella is a good place to rest, eat well, and take it all in before the road calls again.
Monsterio de Irache
651.5 KM to Santiago
About two kilometres after leaving Estella, you’ll come across one of the Camino’s most iconic stops, the wine fountain at Bodegas Irache. Built into a stone wall right on the path, it pours out both water and wine, free for pilgrims. The local winery tops it up with 100 litres of wine every day. Bring a cup or just use the shell hanging off your pack.
The fountain sits among the vineyards just before you reach the Monasterio de Irache. You can visit their small wine museum too. There’s even a live webcam on the fountain if you want to wave to friends back home.
Less than 100 metres after the wine fountain, the Camino passes the Monasterio de Irache. Take the time to step in. I found it peaceful, quiet and reflective. Maybe it was the wine, but it stayed with me.
Villamayor de Monjardín
645.5 KM to Santiago
After the monastery, the path begins to climb gently as you head back into the open countryside. Soon, the trail presents a choice. The traditional and more popular route takes you through the village of Villamayor, and the second route takes you through the village of Luquin.
The route via Villamayor de Monjardín offers an incredible view. The village is built on the highest hill in the area, with old castle ruins at the top. You can climb up and take in the panorama, fields, hills, and sky in every direction.
It’s a small place, but there are a few albergues. I really liked Oasis Trails Albergue. It’s a peaceful, welcoming place with a gentle Christian spirit. Each evening there’s a simple meditation service that brings a calm, reflective end to the day. When I stayed there, we had a lovely shared dinner with delicious shepherds pie and a real feeling of community.
It can fill up, since the next stretch is 12 kilometers with nowhere to stop.
Luquin
644.5 KM to Santiago
The second option is less travelled, a quieter, more intimate detour that takes you through the small village of Luquin. Rather than climbing directly to Monjardín, this route drops gently into more wooded terrain, offering welcome shade and a softer landscape.
IIt’s the kind of path where birdsong fills the quiet, and you might walk for an hour without seeing another soul. Luquin is a sleepy little village, almost untouched by time. There’s a small, welcoming albergue here, Casa Tiago, and a café beside the municipal pool, perfect for a refreshing dip after a long summer walk. Luquin feels genuine, as if the Camino has tiptoed through rather than marched past.
Los Arcos
634 KM to Santiago
The two routes meet up again, and from there it’s another 10 km to Los Arcos, with nothing in between. No villages, no fountains, no shops. So be ready.
First time I walked the Camino, I got a bit greedy at the wine fountain. Thought I was clever, emptied my only bottle of water and filled it with wine. It was a scorcher of a day, and I was already thirsty. Somewhere along this stretch, completely parched, I started dreaming of a miracle to turn that wine back into water.
Los Arcos is a classic Camino stop and a popular place to stay. I’ve had some great nights there. One year I ended up in the local bull run, it’s usually in mid August. Things get loud and lively.
There are plenty of beds. The municipal albergue is at the far end of town. It’s busy and full of energy. I also like Albergue La Fuente, Casa de Austria, which has a fun hippy vibe.
The square has a few bars and restaurants, and it’s a good spot to sit and watch pilgrims roll in. The main church, Santa María, is worth a visit; it’s big and cool inside, with a huge altar and sometimes organ music in the evening.
Sansol
626.5 KM to Santiago
After Los Arcos, it’s about 7 km to Sansol. Sansol a quiet little spot, but it’s home to one of my favourite albergues on the Camino, aptly named Albergue Sansol.
It’s a proper little oasis. Out the back, there’s a fountain where everyone ends up soaking their feet, glass of wine in hand. They do a cracking communal meal, big portions, plenty of wine, and great vibes. When I stayed there, someone pulled out a guitar and before long the whole room was singing.
There’s also Palacio Sansol, set in a beautifully renovated old building with stunning views. I haven’t stayed there myself, but a few friends have. They really liked the place, said it was impressive, but mentioned the food could be better
Torres del Rio
626 KM to Santiago
Torres del Río is a small hill town with a good Camino feel. The old church is worth a visit, and the views aren’t bad. Albergue Casa Mariela is friendly, affordable, and has everything you need,5 good food, a bed, and a place to rest your feet.
Viana
615.5 KM to Santiago
After Torres del Río, the walk to Viana is about 9 km. Viana is a bigger town with more to offer. I recommend Albergue Izar, clean, modern, and welcoming. They have a kitchen, rooftop terrace, and good communal spaces. It’s a solid place to rest up before heading onto Logroño
Logroño
605.7 KM to Santiago
The walk from Viana to Logroño is about 9.5 km. You enter the city over the Puente de Piedra, crossing the Ebro. Logroño is a mid-sized city, around 150,000 people, and it feels busy after the quiet villages. One thing you should definitely do in Logroño is visit the Catedral de Santa María de la Redonda and find the small painting of the Crucifixion by Michelangelo. It’s tucked away behind the main altar, and to view it, you insert a coin into a box that illuminates the artwork for a minute or so, a serene moment just you and a Michelangelo.
Logroño’s a great place to spend the evening, and if you do, you’ll almost definitely end up on Calle del Laurel. It’s packed with bars serving all kinds of tapas and plenty of Rioja.
I usually stay at the Parroquial Albergue Santiago El Real. It’s right on the Camino, simple, donation-based, and has a really warm, welcoming vibe.
