The Camino de Invierno
Monforte de Lemos to Santiago
From Monforte de Lemos, it’s approximately 135 kilometres to Santiago de Compostela, on the Camino Invierno (the Winter Way), a walk that typically takes about 5 or 6 days to complete. The Invierno runs parallel and roughly 40 kilometres south of the Francés and was historically used as an alternative to avoid the often snow-covered mountain of O Cebreiro. For those seeking solitude and a break from the crowds of the Francés, the Invierno is a great alternative.
Walking the Camino Invierno felt a little like stepping back in time, perhaps to what the Camino was like in the 80s or 90s. Locals know about the Camino but often haven’t met many pilgrims, which adds to the charm. The peace and quiet were unmatched, and arriving in Santiago after days of tranquillity made standing before the cathedral even more powerful.
The Camino Invierno is really well signposted, but I still found having the Wise Pilgrim app and the late John Brierley’s Camino de Invierno guidebook super helpful.
When I walked in October, I encountered only a handful of other pilgrims and it was very quiet. However, the Camino de Invierno route is gaining popularity every year, and while there are a decent number of albergues,, a sudden increase in pilgrim numbers—especially in the summer months—could lead to limited availability, so it might be a good idea to research and plan accommodations ahead, just in case.
So let’s get started:
Monteforte de Lemons
135 KM to Santiago
My Camino Invierno journey began in Monforte de Lemos, a city of 20,000 residents built around a hill crowned by a Parador. The approach in to Monforte follows a train line and isn’t the most scenic, but the town has plenty of charm to offer. After a long walk from Samos, I arrived late and stayed at the very cosy, family-run Albergue Lemavo. Another option is the modern Municipal Albergue Santiago 15, which has beds for 50 pilgrims.
If you have time in Monforte, definitely visit the Colegio Nuestra Señora de la Antigua (Colegio de los Escolapios), a Renaissance monastery that’s now a school. There are guided tours (€3) every day at noon and 4 p.m. from Tuesday to Saturday. The highlights include two El Greco paintings. One of the things I love about the Camino is stumbling across amazing historic art. Instead of being in a crowded gallery like the Prado in Madrid, you might find yourself in a quiet room, completely alone, with masterpieces just hanging there, no fuss at all.
Diomondi
113.3 KM to Santiago
Leaving Monforte de Lemos, the route passes through a series of quiet hamlets: A Vide (4 km), A Broza (another 4 km), and finally Piñeiro, 4 km further.
Piñeiro is a great spot for a morning break. There aren’t any shops, but there is a fountain that’s said to have the most refreshing water on the Camino—though, to be fair, I think every village on the Camino makes that claim! Still, it was the perfect place to stop and have my breakfast. From here, the trail winds along peaceful country roads and forest paths, with a steady uphill climb throughout the day.
About 8 km beyond Piñeiro, you’ll come to the Church of San Paio de Diomondi, a stunning 12th-century Romanesque church. The doorway is decorated with intricate carvings, mostly of farm animals for some reason 🤔.
There’s a fantastic new albergue right next to the church that I’d definitely recommend. A lot of people push on to Chantada from Monforte, but keep in mind it’s another 8 km of steep hills. If you’ve walked the 35+ km from Samos to Monforte, as I suggested, you might appreciate a shorter day. Staying here makes it a manageable 22 km instead of a 30 km slog. Plus, it gives you time the next day to really enjoy the incredible Ribeira Sacra (the Sacred Riverbank) area instead of just passing through in the late afternoon. Totally your call!
Just a quick note the area is very remote, so bring your own food if you plan to stay. Also the hospitaleros have the keys to the church.
Belesar
111 KM to Santiago
Leave the Church of San Paio de Diomondi and head back in the direction you arrived, just a 100 meters or so and you’ll spot a signposted lane on the opposite side of the road. Follow this old Roman road for about 2 km as it descends steeply toward the river. Be careful the descent is rocky and requires caution, but the views are incredible.
The path brings you down to the village of Belesar on the Ribeira Sacra, a region celebrated for its terraced vineyards cascading down the slopes of the Miño river, framed by rugged schist-covered mountains. The scenery is simply spectacular—one of the most stunning views on the Camino Invierno.
As said if you stay in Diomondi you will have time to fully explore area. There is a small boat dock in the village and, you’ll find a small café here as well boat companies that offer short cruises along the Miño.
I would definitely consider taking time out of your Camino and taking one of the tours, which last about 3 hours. I took a tour to the Ecosacra winery near the picturesque village of Pincelo in Chantada. The boat takes you to the vineyards of Finca Millara in Pantón, passing the iconic O Cabo do Mundo meander.
The tour includes a stop at the 300-year-old Ecosacra winery, a lovingly restored bodega that also houses a small wine museum.
After your cruise, it’s just a short (albeit steep) walk up to Chantada. With only about 10 km of walking for the day, you could kind of think of it as an unofficial rest day
Chantada
105.5 KM to Santiago
Chantada is a small town of about 10,000 people. The town itself doesn’t offer many activities, but I found a cosy little bar and spent the evening tucked into my book and people-watching.
The highlight of Chantada for me was definitely where I stayed at the Dpaso Hostel, located just off the main street.
I really enjoyed it—ultra-modern layout, clean and spacious facilities, and a well-equipped kitchen with everything you might need.
The Hostal is a new family run venture, hopefully it will be a big success.
Alto de Faro
105.5 KM to Santiago
After Chantada, the next accommodation I could find was in Rodeiro, leaving no choice but to take on a demanding 27 km day. This stage of the Camino Invierno crosses over Monte Faro, the highest point of the Camino Invierno.
The day begins with an easy 9 km walk to Penasillas. There is a charming little bar here, Cantina O Peto. It was the only café I passed all day, and you can collect a stamp here —if it’s open. I believe it opens around 9 a.m.
From Penasillas, there’s a steady 5 km climb up to the summit of Monte Faro, which stands at 1,190 meters (nearly 4,000 feet). On a clear day, the 360-degree views are supposed to be absolutely stunning—but unfortunately, the clouds rolled in when I was there.
Close to the summit, keep an eye out for a small set of steps on your left if you’d like to visit the Ermita de Monte Faro, a small chapel at the peak.
The route then continues through a surreal wind farm, where the steady hum of turbines and their swooping blades add a unique atmosphere to the landscape.
After several kilometres on unpaved roads, the Camino transitions to paved surfaces for the final approach to Rodeiro.
Rodeiro
78.9 KM to Santiago
I found Rodeiro to be a pleasant little village. You can get a stamp at the Casa de Concello (town hall), but note that it’s only open until 2 pm. The village’s Romanesque church dates back to the 12th century. There are a couple of cafes in town— I ate at Bar Decito on the main street and enjoyed some good paella. There’s also a bakery called Panadería Jesús, which is known for baking bread for the Spanish royal family in Madrid.
I stayed at Albergue Pension Carpinteiras, which I really liked. One of the unique things about the Camino Invierno is that, with so few places to stay, pilgrims tend to gather in the same villages and albergues, creating a special camaraderie. The albergue served wine, and we had a fun evening with a true Invierno vibe.
Lalin
57.3 KM to Santiago
The Camino from Rodeiro to Lalín takes you through scenic backroads in the heart of Galicia. The route meanders along dirt paths, past trout-filled streams, and crosses a beautiful 12th-century bridge. Along the way, you’ll encounter plenty of cows, but no services, apart from the occasional fountain.
Lalín is a larger town and has a lively atmosphere, especially. A life-size bronze statue of a hog stands proudly on the main street, paying homage to the region’s culinary heritage. Lalín is renowned for its cocido, a hearty dish of greens, potatoes, chickpeas, broth, and stewed pork all served together in a satisfying heap. For a great place to try it, head to Casa do Muíño, located across the street from the Palacio Hotel.
There’s plenty of good private accommodation in Lalín. While there is an Albergue in town, it appeared to be closed when I visited in October 2024.
A Laxe
50.8 KM to Santiago
The Albergue de Peregrinos de A Laxe is another 7 km beyond Lalín and is definitely worth staying at. It’s run by the Xunta de Galicia and offers a comfortable stop for pilgrims. About 400 meters down the road, you’ll find a restaurant at the Onde Antonio Bar, a convenient spot for a meal.
This is also the point where the Camino Invierno joins the Camino Sanabrés, so you’ll start meeting new pilgrims, many who have walked all the way from Sevilla, along La Via de la Plata. It’s a great opportunity to swap stories, compare notes, and enjoy the camaraderie. From here, the road gets a little busier with more walkers joining the trail.
Silleda
41.3 KM to Santiago
The walk continues through picturesque Galician farmland, following a well-marked and easy-to-navigate path.
Silleda is a town I haven’t stayed in, but it seems pleasant enough, with a population of around 10,000. There is an albergue in town that, from the outside, resembles a budget hotel you might find on the beach in southern Spain. However, by all accounts, it’s a comfortable and welcoming place to stay.
Dornelas
29.1 KM to Santiago
Dornelas was one of my favourite places to stay on the Camino. It’s 21 km from A Laxe and about 28 km from Lalín. It’s also roughly 28 km from Santiago, making it a great spot if you’re prepared for a big push into Santiago.
Dornelas is a postcard-perfect hamlet with a fantastic albergue, Casa Leiras 1866, run by the wonderful Italian couple Christina and Andrea. They are fabulous hosts who create great vibes and offer delicious communal meals.
Santiago
00 KM to Santiago
The final kilometres into Santiago along the Camino Invierno are quiet. Unlike the main route of the Francés, which merges with the Primitivo and Norte and can feel crowded while passing through industrial zones and near the airport, the Invierno route is much more pleasant. You’ll find yourself walking through serene forests almost all the way to the city center and into the square.
There is a small alberque in Outeiro about 17 km from Santiago, for those wanting a shorter last-day walk into Santiago.
Also the mythical peak Pico Sacro rises up behind the Albergue and is worth the hike to the top for those who have the energy, as the views are spectacular and on a clear day you can get your first glimpse of the cathedral spires from here.
There are many options to stay in Santiago, but I’ll just highlight two albergues I really like: The Last Stamp and Meiga Backpackers.
For more details about Santiago, feel free to explore the many articles I’ve written about it on this website!
Overview
00 KM to Santiago
The Camino Invierno is truly special. If you’re walking the Francés and looking for a quieter final few days, I highly recommend veering off after Samos to pick up this peaceful route—I think you’ll really appreciate it.
Traditionally, the Camino Invierno was said to offer an easier path to avoid snow, but I’d argue it’s more challenging today, with long stages, limited services, and some significant ascents.
The route is much quieter, and most of the people who walk it are veterans of the Camino, so you’ll encounter fewer English speakers—something to be prepared for. It’s also worth considering that you might experience some fear of missing out by not finishing on the traditional Francés route from Sarria, which is completely understandable.
That said, I find arriving in Santiago via the Invierno so much more special. The quietness of the previous days, particularly the last day walking through forests, makes the arrival in the square and standing before the cathedral feel all the more epic and rewarding.
