Section 8
Astorga to Ponferrada
We now head back into the mountains. The distance from Astorga to Ponferrada on the Camino Francés is about 53 km. Highlights of this stretch include the charming villages of Rabanal, Foncebadón, and Acebo, laying your stone at the Cruz de Ferro, swimming in the river at Molinaseca in the summer, and visiting the magnificent Templar castle in Ponferrada..
Astorga
256.9 KM to Santiago
From Astorga, you’ll likely notice the Camino becoming a little busier. Many new pilgrims join here — often Spanish walkers, as Astorga is a popular starting point for shorter Caminos. Some pilgrims have also come north from Seville along the Via de la Plata, merging with the Camino Francés at this point.
Murias de Rechivaldo
252.4 KM to Santiago
After about 4 km of easy, flat walking, you’ll arrive in Murias de Rechivaldo, a small Maragato village with a few good albergues and a traditional, rural charm.
Castrillo de los Polvazares
250.4 KM to Santiago
There’s a small detour to Castrillo de los Polvazares that adds just 700 metres to your day, and it’s well worth it. This beautifully restored Maragato village is known for its cobbled streets, stone houses, and rich local traditions. Legend has it that Napoleon himself spent a night here during his campaigns. With no modern buildings to spoil the view, Castrillo has a timeless, almost storybook feel.
Santa Catalina de Somoza
247.8 KM to Santiago
Santa Catalina de Somoza is the only town or village on the entire Camino Francés named after a female saint, Saint Catherine of Alexandria. It’s also home to one of my favourite albergues on the Camino, La Bohème, which serves a wonderful communal vegan meal.
El Ganso
243. 5 KM to Santiago
After a gentle climb of about 4 km, you’ll reach El Ganso, best known for its quirky cowboy bar — a great spot to stop for a cold beer.
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Rabanal del Camino
236.9 KM to Santiago
The walk from El Ganso to Rabanal del Camino is about 6.5 km, winding through open countryside with a steady climb of around 150 metres as you head into the foothills of the Montes de León.
Rabanal is a classic pilgrim town and a popular place to stay, especially with the big mountain climb ahead. It’s a beautiful village, full of cobbled streets, old stone houses, and a peaceful, timeless atmosphere.
The village is also home to the Benedictine monastery of San Salvador del Monte Irago, where the monks hold daily services with beautiful Gregorian chants. Pilgrims who want a deeper experience can stay for a few days in the monastery’s Pilgrim House. It’s not a typical albergue, but a true monastic community that opens its doors to those walking to Compostela. A minimum stay of two nights is asked, and while there’s no set charge, pilgrims are encouraged to contribute what they can to support the community. Reservations aren’t possible — you simply arrive and speak to the hospitalero or one of the monks. The Pilgrim House welcomes pilgrims from early May until around mid-October.
There are also plenty of good albergues to choose from in Rabanal, but my personal favourite is Refugio Gaucelmo. Run by the British Confraternity of Saint James, this donation-based albergue offers a warm and friendly atmosphere. They even serve afternoon tea in the garden — a little slice of Britain right in the heart of the Camino!
Foncebadón
231.7 KM to Santiago
Continue another 5 kilometres uphill from Rabanal del Camino, and you’ll arrive at Foncebadón, a mountain-top village famously portrayed by Paulo Coelho in his book The Pilgrimage. Once known for its isolation, crumbling stone ruins, and wild dogs, Foncebadón has recently undergone a remarkable revival. Many of its abandoned homes have been lovingly restored into welcoming albergues.
Two of the best albergues greet you as you enter the village. On your left, you’ll find Albergue Monte Irago, renowned for its delicious communal meals and warm hospitality. Just across the road stands the charming El Convento de Foncebadón, another cozy choice offering comfort and stunning mountain views—if ther is no fog.
Foncebadón has become increasingly popular among pilgrims, not only for its picturesque setting but also because it’s strategically located near the Cruz de Ferro. Many pilgrims prefer staying here overnight to experience an early, quiet morning at the iconic cross. To ensure accommodation, especially in peak season, so it’s wise to book a day or two ahead.
If you find the first two albergues fully booked, the village also offers the Albergue Parroquial Domus Dei, a traditional donativo albergue originally founded by the hermit Gaucelmo.
Cruz de Ferro
229.4 KM to Santiago
From Foncebadón, it’s only about 2km up to Cruz de Ferro, the highest point on this mountain pass. It’s one of the most special spots on the Camino — a simple iron cross on a tall wooden pole, standing on a massive pile of stones. Pilgrims carry a stone from home and leave it here, letting go of a burden, offering a prayer, or marking their journey. It’s a quiet, emotional place where you can really feel the spirit of everyone who walked before you.
El Acebo
220.3 KM to Santiago
After Cruz de Ferro, the path starts to head downhill. At first, it’s a bit rocky and uneven, so you have to watch your step. You pass through a tiny place called Manjarín, where there’s an old, quirky pilgrim shelter. From there, the trail keeps dropping down through open hills and forests. It’s peaceful, with big views across the valleys. As you get closer to El Acebo, the path can be a bit rough and steep in places, but the village appears like a little welcome spot on the hillside.
El Acebo is a small, pretty village tucked into the side of the mountain. It’s got a few nice places to stay. Albergue Mesón El Acebo is a cosy spot with a rustic feel and a restaurant attached — good food and a nice terrace to relax on. Albergue parroquial Apóstol Santiago is a simple, traditional pilgrim hostel run by volunteers. It’s full of heart and real Camino spirit — I loved this place. Albergue La Casa del Peregrino is a bigger, more modern albergue with a pool and a restaurant, just a little further on after the village.
Molinaseca
212.4 KM to Santiago
The walk from El Acebo to Molinaseca is mostly downhill and can be tough on the knees. Early on, the path is really rocky and uneven, so you’ll want to take your time and watch your step. You pass through a few small villages like Riego de Ambrós, with some lovely views across the valleys along the way. As you get closer to Molinaseca, the trail evens out and winds down through shaded woods. Then, almost out of nowhere, you cross a beautiful old stone bridge and arrive in Molinaseca — one of the prettiest village entrances on the whole Camino.
In summer, they dam up the river in Molinaseca and turn it into a big natural swimming pool. After a long, hot day of walking, it’s hard not to dive straight into the water before even crossing the bridge into town — so go for it! After your dip, cross the old stone bridge into the village and wander onto the main street.
Molinaseca is a beautiful little place, full of old stone houses, narrow streets, and lively cafés. The main street is lined with terraces where you can sit outside with a cold drink and watch the world go by.
Ponferrada
205.1 KM to Santiago
It’s about a 7 km walk from Molinaseca to Ponferrada, mostly along sidewalks. About three kilometers out of Molinaseca, the Camino splits. It’s kind of six of one, half a dozen of the other when it comes to which path you take — they’re very similar. I usually go left, down through the tiny village of Campo, and then back up into the city of Ponferrada.
Ponferrada is one of the bigger cities on the Camino, with about 65,000 people. The big highlight is the Templar Castle — and look, I’m from Ireland where you trip over castles every five minutes, so usually I don’t get too excited. But this one’s different. It’s massive, and honestly, it looks like something straight out of a Lego set with its chunky towers and thick stone walls. It’s definitely worth a wander around.
Ponferrada is one of the bigger cities on the Camino, with about 65,000 people. The big highlight is the Templar Castle — and look, I’m from Ireland where you trip over castles every five minutes, so usually I don’t get too excited. But this one’s different. It’s massive, and honestly, it looks like something straight out of a Lego set with its chunky towers and thick stone walls. It’s definitely worth a wander around.
There are plenty of places to stay in Ponferrada. Two worth mentioning are Albergue Parroquial San Nicolás de Flüe, a simple, donation-based albergue for pilgrims with a peaceful garden and evening blessings and Albergue Guiana, a very modern hostel with dorms, private rooms, Wi-Fi, a kitchen, and even a sauna. I stayed there once while cycling the Camino and they have a great bike workshop in the basement.
