Section 10
Sarria to Santiago
The final 113 kilometres from Sarria to Santiago winds through shady woods, past stone-walled farms, and tiny Galician villages where cows often have more right to the road than you do. Some days, it feels more like walking in Ireland or Scotland than it does Spain
From here, it also gets super busy, with loads of new pilgrims starting in Sarria, and the whole atmosphere shifts, not in a bad or a good way; it’s just different, as you share the path with so many people from all over the world. There is a real buzz in the air as you get closer to Santiago; the towns start getting bigger, and the kilometre markers seem to fall faster with every step as you make that final push towards the city and the finish line at the cathedral.
If you think the busyness will get too much for you, you can always avoid this last stretch by arriving in Santiago via the Camino Invierno, here’s my guide to how to connect the two Caminos just after Samos.
Sarria
113.8 KM to Santiago
Leaving Sarria, the Camino Francés dips straight into classic Galician countryside. You’ll head downhill through the old quarter, past narrow stone lanes, a small chapel or two, and out over the railway line.
Very quickly, you’re back in nature, oak forests, moss-covered walls, and rolling farmland. The path undulates gently, crossing tiny hamlets where time seems to have paused. You’ll pass chestnut trees, bubbling streams, and plenty of roadside crosses.
Barbadelo
110.0 KM to Santiago
Roughly 4 km after leaving Sarria, you’ll come to the tiny hamlet of Barbadelo, where there’s a fine little 12th-century Romanesque church. It pops up in the Codex Calixtinus and is worth a look.
There are a few albergues in the village, and it’s a really peaceful place to stay if Sarria is just too busy for you. I would recommend A Casa de Carmen, run by two kind Italian pilgrims
Morgade
101.6 KM to Santiago
Continue through small hamlets for 8 km to Morgade, which is little more than a bend in the road, just a single albergue and a stone marker showing you’re now under 100km from Santiago. But despite its size, it’s a memorable stop.
This albergue’s a bit special. It’s got a proper restaurant with proper homemade food, and the place is modern and comfy. Out front, there’s a little café with outdoor seating, perfect if you just want to sit for a bit with a café con leche and watch the pilgrims go by.
Portomarín
91.7 KM to Santiago
The walk to Portomarín is about 10 km and mostly gentle, weaving through forests and farmland. As you get closer, the path starts to descend toward the Miño River, and you’ll see Portomarín sitting up on a hill across the valley.
To get there, you’ll cross a long, high bridge over the reservoir; fair warning, if you’ve got a fear of heights, it’s not for the faint-hearted. The view’s impressive though, especially on a clear day.
The town itself has an unusual story. The original village was down in the valley, but back in the 1960s, they dammed the river to create the reservoir. So they moved the whole town uphill. Stone by stone in the case of the church, which was rebuilt exactly as it was. If the water level’s really low in late summer, you can sometimes see the spire of the old church poking out of the reservoir as you cross the bridge. It’s eerie and fascinating.
Once you cross, there’s a bunch of stone steps to climb before you reach the town proper. Portomarín has a more modern feel than many Camino towns, almost like a chic resort that happens to have the Camino running through it. There are plenty of good restaurants and albergues in Portomarín.
Gonzar
84.2 KM to Santiago
Leaving Portomarín, make sure you don’t accidentally miss the Camino signs as you head downhill out of town. It’s easy to take the wrong turn here; the path briefly doubles back on itself, and if you’re not paying attention, you can easily end up on the busy main road instead of the trail (I’ve done it myself!).
A little further on, you’ll come to a point where the route splits left and right; both rejoin later, but I like the left option. It brings you down by the river with another view of the bridge before climbing again on quiet country roads that turn into peaceful forest paths, mostly uphill toward Gonzar.
You will start to see loads of hórreos from here, these long, narrow stone or wooden structures on stilts that look like little houses on legs, in every garden. The first time I saw one, someone told me they were used to bury the dead, and I, horrified but gullible, believed it. They’re actually for storing grain, keeping it dry and safe from rodents.
The village of Gonzar is tiny, more a scattering of houses than a town, but it has a municipal albergue and a decent bar, Hosteria De Gonzar, which also has an albergue, where you can grab a bite. Not a headline stop, but a solid place to break for the night or just catch your breath before the next leg.
Castromaior
82.9 KM to Santiago
Continue through the small hamlet of Castromaior, which has just a handful of buildings and a small café. About 50 metres past the village, off to your left, you’ll find the ruins of the Castro de Castromaior, an ancient Iron Age hillfort that gave the village its name.
Most pilgrims walk right past without realising it’s there, as it’s tucked just out of view before the main road. But absolutely don’t miss it, it’s one of my favourite spots on the whole Camino.
The ruins date back to the 4th century BC and are among the most important Iron Age sites in northwest Spain. Inside the old stone walls, you can still see the remains of houses and narrow little lanes where people lived more than 2,000 years ago. The Celtic settlement was only abandoned after the Roman conquest, and archaeologists are still digging here; probably, only about 20 per cent has been excavated so far. You’re free to wander through the ruins; nothing’s roped off. If you take one thing from this guide, make it this: stop and spend time at Castromaior, ideally at first light.
Palas de Rei
67.5 KM to Santiago
From here, the trail continues through ancient chestnut groves, quiet farm tracks, and a few small hamlets. Ventas de Narón, has a tiny stone chapel and a couple of great places to stay, Albergue Casa Molar and Albergue O Cruceiro, both highly recommended.
A few kilometres later, you’ll reach Ligonde, a peaceful little village with the only donativo I came across in the last 100 km — Albergue La Fuente del Peregrino. It’s a warm, welcoming place run by a U.S. Christian mission, with around ten beds and a relaxed communal vibe. It’s well worth stopping in for a rest or a chat with the volunteers, even if you’re not staying overnight. Note that it’s closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, and since it’s quite small, booking ahead is a good idea. They don’t serve alcohol, and the atmosphere here is rooted in Christian values.
After a few more kilometres, there’s a short but really worthwhile detour to Vilar de Donas, easy to miss if you’re not paying attention. The turn-off is about 1.5 km past Ligonde, and a small country lane leads roughly 2 km to the quiet little village.
Here you’ll find the 13th-century Church of San Salvador, one of the hidden gems of the Camino. The walk there is gentle and peaceful, through open fields and country lanes. The church is known for its beautifully preserved medieval frescoes and its connection to the Knights of Santiago, several of whom are buried inside, their tombs marked with carved stone effigies.
When I visited, the doors were closed, but I’ve heard it’s open on summer afternoons, and they hold Mass on the first Sunday of each month at 11 am. If you’re lucky, a volunteer might be around to unlock the church and share a bit of its history; it’s a lovely, atmospheric stop well worth the detour.
Continue on to Palas de Rei, a popular overnight stop, about 68 km from Santiago, and marks the beginning of the final three-day push for many walkers.
The town’s name comes from Pallatium Regis, or “Palace of the King,” supposedly linked to the Visigothic king Witiza, who ruled here in the 8th century. Today, it’s a small but bustling place with around 3,500 residents, and it’s well-stocked with pharmacies and shops.
Palas de Rei is also at the junction of the Camino Francés and the Camino Primitivo, so you’ll likely meet pilgrims from both routes.
There are loads of places to stay in town, including the very modern Albergue San Marcos, but my top pick is probably Albergue A Casina di Marcello. Marcello’s a pilgrim himself; he’s walked loads of Caminos and ended up settling here to run his own place. He cooked us a splendid Italian dinner, proper home-style stuff. Can’t recommend it enough.
Melide
52.7 KM to Santiago
The walk from Palas de Rei to Melide is about 15 km and takes you through more rolling Galician countryside dotted with tiny hamlets, old stone bridges, and shaded woodland paths. It’s a really pretty stretch, one of the most charming sections of the final days.
If you’ve got the energy for one last detour, about 3 km after Palas de Rei you’ll come to the turnoff for Pambre Castle (Castillo de Pambre). It’s an incredible sight —one of the few medieval fortresses in Galicia to survive the popular revolts of the 14th century. Perched on a hill and surrounded by forest, its thick stone walls and moss-covered towers look like something out of a fairy tale.
The detour adds about 2-3 km total (round-trip), depending on where you rejoin the Camino, and usually takes about 60 minutes extra. The castle is open Tuesday to Sunday, roughly 11:00 to 18:00, and it’s absolutely worth it if you want a taste of medieval Galicia
The Camino continues through villages like San Xulián, Casanova, and Leboreiro. There’s also a beautiful old bridge at Furelos, just before Melide.
Melide is a lively mid-sized town and is the capital of Galicia’s signature dish, pulpo (octopus). It might seem odd since the town is more than 40 km from the sea, but there’s a long history behind it. For centuries, fishermen from coastal ports like A Coruña brought octopus inland, preserved in salt, and sold it to traders and pilgrims passing through this crossroads. Over time, Melide earned its reputation for serving some of the best pulpo in Galicia.
Today, pulpeiras still cook it the traditional way, boiled in big copper pots, snipped into pieces with scissors, and served on wooden plates with olive oil, coarse salt, and paprika. The two most famous pulperías are Ezequiel and A Garnacha, both buzzing at lunchtime with locals and pilgrims gathered around long wooden tables. Order a plate for yourself or to share, grab a glass of Ribeiro wine, and soak up the atmosphere.
Ribadiso
44.1 KM to Santiago
The walk from Melide to Ribadiso is around 13 km; the path continues through quiet forests, gentle hills, and more tiny Galician villages. You’ll pass places like Boente and Castañeda.
Just after Boente, you’ll head down into a lush green valley and cross a small stone bridge over the Iso River. Right after that, you’ll see the albergue at Ribadiso, one of my favourites.
It’s set in an old stone building, a restored medieval pilgrims’ hospital, right by the river. The setting is really peaceful, with a little stream running past and fields all around.
Arzúa
38.5 KM to Santiago
The walk from Ribadiso to Arzúa is short, just about 3 km, but it’s mostly uphill, so you’ll feel it, especially if you’re hitting it first thing in the morning.
You leave Ribadiso by crossing another little stone bridge and then start the steady climb through trees and back onto quiet country roads. It’s not far, but it can feel longer with the hill and the morning legs.
Arzúa is a fine town, and the Camino goes right through the middle of it. Arzúa is best known for its local cheese, queso de Arzúa-Ulloa. It’s soft and mild, and you’ll often see it melted on toast or drizzled with honey.
A Rúa
21.0 KM to Santiago
The walk from Arzúa to A Rúa is about 19 km, and it’s a mix of forest paths and country lanes, with a few gentle ups and downs. It’s a peaceful stage, passing through hamlets like Pregontoño and Salceda—nothing major, but plenty of spots to stop for a coffee or a rest.
A Rúa itself is a small, quiet village, more a cluster of houses than a proper town, but it has a couple of good albergues, including Albergue O’Pazo and Albergue A Rúa. There are also a few bars and restaurants where you can get a decent meal.
It’s a great place to stop for the night if you want to break up the final stage to Santiago. Staying here means you’ve got just over 20 km left the next day, enough for a good final walk, but not too long. It also keeps you out of the busy crowds that start packing into O Pedrouzo. A calm last night on the Camino.
Santiago
0 KM to Santiago
The final walk from A Rúa to Santiago is just over 20 km, and it’s a mix of emotions, excitement, nerves, maybe a bit of sadness that it’s nearly over.
The path takes you through more eucalyptus forests, country roads, and the usual scatter of small villages. You’ll pass through places like Amenal, San Paio, and Lavacolla (yep, that’s the spot where medieval pilgrims used to wash up before entering Santiago). There are a few hills, but nothing too brutal, just enough to remind your legs that they’ve done a lot of work.
As you get closer, things start to feel more urban. The Camino winds through Santiago’s outskirts—past roundabouts, busy roads, and modern suburbs. Then you reach Monte do Gozo—“Mount Joy”—a small hill with sweeping views of the city. For many pilgrims, it’s where you catch your first glimpse of the cathedral towers. From there, it’s a steady walk downhill into the heart of Santiago.
The last stretch through the city streets can feel a bit long, but suddenly you’re there, turning a corner into the Praza do Obradoiro, and there it is: the cathedral. The finish line. You made it.
I like your descriptions very much as I am about to head over from Australia. I am most likely starting from Astorga or Ponferrada – trying to decide also whether to go to Finisterre. Thanks for sharing.