Section 10
Sarria to Santiago
The final 113 kilometres from Sarria to Santiago undulate gently through chestnut and eucalyptus forests, crossing streams, passing old roadside crosses, and winding through tiny Galician villages where time seems to have paused and cows often have more right to the road than you do. Some days it feels more like walking in Ireland or Scotland than in Spain. In this last stretch, you might feast on octopus, discover ancient Celtic forts at sunrise, sample traditional Galician cheese, and finally catch your first glimpse of the cathedral’s spires from the Mount of Joy.
From here, it also gets super busy, with loads of new pilgrims starting in Sarria, and the whole atmosphere shifts, not in a bad way or a good way; it’s just a different energy as you share the path with so many new people. There is a real buzz in the air as Santiago draws closer. The towns get bigger, the kilometre markers seem to fall faster, and something shifts in your stride as you make that final push towards the city and the cathedral.
In these last 100 km, I always prefer to stay in the small hamlets between the busier towns rather than in the towns themselves. They offer you a bit of space and time to reflect before arriving in Santiago, and when you set off early in the morning, most of the crowds are either ahead of you or still behind you, so the trail is quieter. Some of my favourite albergues on the entire Camino are tucked away in these little hamlets. They’re often family-run places full of character, many run by former pilgrims who couldn’t bring themselves to leave the Camino behind. I’ll be pointing out plenty of them along the way.
But if you think the busyness will get too much for you, you can always avoid this final stretch by finishing in Santiago via the Camino Invierno instead. I’ve included a guide later in the book showing how to make the switch just after Samos.
Sarria
115 km (71 miles) to Santiago
If you are starting in Sarria, you can easily get there by bus from Santiago. Just head to Santiago’s main bus station, where Monbus operates a daily service at 11 am. The journey takes just over two hours and costs around €11. You can book your ticket online.The bus follows the Camino route, stopping in all the little towns along the way.
www.monbus.es
Navigate the flight of steps through Sarria’s old town. And then downhill through narrow stone lanes, a few churches, and out over the railway line. Very quickly, you’re back in nature, with oak forests, moss-covered walls, and rolling farmland.
Barbadelo
111 km (69 miles) to Santiago
After about 3 km, you reach the tiny hamlet of Vilei, home to the very popular Albergue Casa Barbadelo. The albergue has both private and dorm rooms and feels a little more luxurious than many albergues, with a small pool, lively bar and well-kept gardens.
Another kilometre or so brings you to the tiny hamlet of Barbadelo, where you’ll find a beautiful 12th-century Romanesque church featured in the Codex Calixtinus. It’s about 100 metres off the Camino down a small lane, so keep an eye out for it. There are a few albergues here, including one of my absolute favourites, A Casa de Carmen, run with genuine love by a warm Italian couple, Federico and Julia, who serve up delicious homemade food. Another nice alternative to staying in busy Sarria.
Morgade
605 km (376 miles) to Santiago
Continue on for about 8 km to Morgade. There’s another excellent albergue here, with a small café spilling onto the road, the perfect spot for a café con leche while watching pilgrims drift by.
Portomarín
93 km (58 miles) to Santiago
th drops down toward the Miño River, the same river that, further south, forms the natural border between Spain and Portugal, and as you descend, Portomarín gradually reveals itself, perched dramatically on a hill across the valley. Here, the route splits into two options: the “Historic” path and the one marked “Secundario.” There is little to choose between them in terms of distance, but the historic route is quite steep in places, so take your time and watch your footing if you opt for it.
Both paths rejoin at the bridge crossing the reservoir, and what a bridge it is. It’s 300 metres long and seriously high up; the views are impressive, but if heights aren’t your thing, you might want to just look straight ahead and keep moving.
Once you cross, there are some steep stone steps to climb before you reach the town proper. Portomarín has a more modern feel than most Camino towns, almost like a chic resort that just happens to have the Camino running through it. There are plenty of excellent restaurants and albergues in Portomarín, and D’gusta Bakery is worth seeking out for breakfast. One of the best I had on the entire walk.
Portomarín itself has an unusual story. The original village was down in the valley, but back in the 1950s, they dammed the river to create the reservoir, and they moved the entire town up the hill. Stone by stone, with the church, which was rebuilt exactly as it was. If you look closely, you can still see the numbers painted on many of the stones, used to mark exactly where each one belonged during the reconstruction. When water levels are really low, especially in late summer, you can sometimes see ruins of the old town poking out of the water.
Gonzar
80 km (65miles) to Santiago
Leaving Portomarín, make sure you don’t accidentally miss the Camino signs as you head downhill out of town. It’s easy to take the wrong turn here; the path briefly doubles back on itself, and if you’re not paying attention, you can easily end up on the busy main road instead of the trail (I’ve done it myself!).
Just a little further on, you’ll come to a point where the route splits left and right; both rejoin later, and I like the left option. It brings you back down by the reservoir with another view of the bridge before climbing again on quiet country roads that turn into peaceful forest paths.
From here you will start to see hórreos everywhere, those long, narrow stone or wooden structures on stilts that look like tiny houses on legs, standing in almost every garden. The first time I saw one, someone told me they were used for burying the dead. Horrified but entirely gullible, I believed it. They are actually grain stores designed to keep the harvest dry and out of rodents’ reach.
After about 5 km of mostly uphill walking, you will reach Gonzar, a village where the cows significantly outnumber the people. There is a municipal albergue and a decent bar, Hosteria De Gonzar, which also has rooms.
A little further on, you’ll come to a point where the route splits left and right; both rejoin later, but I like the left option. It brings you down by the river with another view of the bridge before climbing again on quiet country roads that turn into peaceful forest paths, mostly uphill toward Gonzar.
Castromaior
605 km (376 miles) to Santiago
Continue through the small hamlet of Castromaior, which has just a handful of buildings and a small café. About 50 metres past the village, off to your left, you’ll find the ruins of the Castro de Castromaior, an ancient Iron Age hillfort that gave the village its name.
Most pilgrims walk right past without realising it’s there, as it’s tucked just out of view before the main road. But absolutely don’t miss it, it’s one of my favourite spots on the whole Camino.
The ruins date back to the 4th century BC and are among the most important Iron Age sites in northwest Spain. Inside the old stone walls, you can still see the remains of houses and narrow little lanes where people lived more than 2,000 years ago. The Celtic settlement was only abandoned after the Roman conquest, and archaeologists are still digging here; probably, only about 20 per cent has been excavated so far. You’re free to wander through the ruins; nothing’s roped off. If you take one thing from this guide, make it this: stop and spend time at Castromaior, ideally at first light.
Palas de Rei
605 km (376 miles) to Santiago
From here, the trail continues through ancient chestnut groves, quiet farm tracks, and a few small hamlets. Ventas de Narón, has a tiny stone chapel and a couple of great places to stay, Albergue Casa Molar and Albergue O Cruceiro, both highly recommended.
A few kilometres later, you’ll reach Ligonde, a peaceful little village with the only donativo I came across in the last 100 km — Albergue La Fuente del Peregrino. It’s a warm, welcoming place run by a U.S. Christian mission, with around ten beds and a relaxed communal vibe. It’s well worth stopping in for a rest or a chat with the volunteers, even if you’re not staying overnight. Note that it’s closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, and since it’s quite small, booking ahead is a good idea. They don’t serve alcohol, and the atmosphere here is rooted in Christian values.
After a few more kilometres, there’s a short but really worthwhile detour to Vilar de Donas, easy to miss if you’re not paying attention. The turn-off is about 1.5 km past Ligonde, and a small country lane leads roughly 2 km to the quiet little village.
Here you’ll find the 13th-century Church of San Salvador, one of the hidden gems of the Camino. The walk there is gentle and peaceful, through open fields and country lanes. The church is known for its beautifully preserved medieval frescoes and its connection to the Knights of Santiago, several of whom are buried inside, their tombs marked with carved stone effigies.
When I visited, the doors were closed, but I’ve heard it’s open on summer afternoons, and they hold Mass on the first Sunday of each month at 11 am. If you’re lucky, a volunteer might be around to unlock the church and share a bit of its history; it’s a lovely, atmospheric stop well worth the detour.
Continue on to Palas de Rei, a popular overnight stop, about 68 km from Santiago, and marks the beginning of the final three-day push for many walkers.
The town’s name comes from Pallatium Regis, or “Palace of the King,” supposedly linked to the Visigothic king Witiza, who ruled here in the 8th century. Today, it’s a small but bustling place with around 3,500 residents, and it’s well-stocked with pharmacies and shops.
Palas de Rei is also at the junction of the Camino Francés and the Camino Primitivo, so you’ll likely meet pilgrims from both routes.
There are loads of places to stay in town, including the very modern Albergue San Marcos, but my top pick is probably Albergue A Casina di Marcello. Marcello’s a pilgrim himself; he’s walked loads of Caminos and ended up settling here to run his own place. He cooked us a splendid Italian dinner, proper home-style stuff. Can’t recommend it enough.
Melide
605 km (376 miles) to Santiago
The walk from Palas de Rei to Melide is about 15 km and takes you through more rolling Galician countryside dotted with tiny hamlets, old stone bridges, and shaded woodland paths. It’s a really pretty stretch, one of the most charming sections of the final days.
If you’ve got the energy for one last detour, about 3 km after Palas de Rei you’ll come to the turnoff for Pambre Castle (Castillo de Pambre). It’s an incredible sight —one of the few medieval fortresses in Galicia to survive the popular revolts of the 14th century. Perched on a hill and surrounded by forest, its thick stone walls and moss-covered towers look like something out of a fairy tale.
The detour adds about 2-3 km total (round-trip), depending on where you rejoin the Camino, and usually takes about 60 minutes extra. The castle is open Tuesday to Sunday, roughly 11:00 to 18:00, and it’s absolutely worth it if you want a taste of medieval Galicia
The Camino continues through villages like San Xulián, Casanova, and Leboreiro. There’s also a beautiful old bridge at Furelos, just before Melide.
Melide is a lively mid-sized town and is the capital of Galicia’s signature dish, pulpo (octopus). It might seem odd since the town is more than 40 km from the sea, but there’s a long history behind it. For centuries, fishermen from coastal ports like A Coruña brought octopus inland, preserved in salt, and sold it to traders and pilgrims passing through this crossroads. Over time, Melide earned its reputation for serving some of the best pulpo in Galicia.
Today, pulpeiras still cook it the traditional way, boiled in big copper pots, snipped into pieces with scissors, and served on wooden plates with olive oil, coarse salt, and paprika. The two most famous pulperías are Ezequiel and A Garnacha, both buzzing at lunchtime with locals and pilgrims gathered around long wooden tables. Order a plate for yourself or to share, grab a glass of Ribeiro wine, and soak up the atmosphere.
Ribadiso
605 km (376 miles) to Santiago
The walk from Melide to Ribadiso is around 13 km; the path continues through quiet forests, gentle hills, and more tiny Galician villages. You’ll pass places like Boente and Castañeda.
Just after Boente, you’ll head down into a lush green valley and cross a small stone bridge over the Iso River. Right after that, you’ll see the albergue at Ribadiso, one of my favourites.
It’s set in an old stone building, a restored medieval pilgrims’ hospital, right by the river. The setting is really peaceful, with a little stream running past and fields all around.
Arzúa
605 km (376 miles) to Santiago
The walk from Ribadiso to Arzúa is short, just about 3 km, but it’s mostly uphill, so you’ll feel it, especially if you’re hitting it first thing in the morning.
You leave Ribadiso by crossing another little stone bridge and then start the steady climb through trees and back onto quiet country roads. It’s not far, but it can feel longer with the hill and the morning legs.
Arzúa is a fine town, and the Camino goes right through the middle of it. Arzúa is best known for its local cheese, queso de Arzúa-Ulloa. It’s soft and mild, and you’ll often see it melted on toast or drizzled with honey.
A Rúa
605 km (376 miles) to Santiago
The walk from Arzúa to A Rúa is about 19 km, and it’s a mix of forest paths and country lanes, with a few gentle ups and downs. It’s a peaceful stage, passing through hamlets like Pregontoño and Salceda—nothing major, but plenty of spots to stop for a coffee or a rest.
A Rúa itself is a small, quiet village, more a cluster of houses than a proper town, but it has a couple of good albergues, including Albergue O’Pazo and Albergue A Rúa. There are also a few bars and restaurants where you can get a decent meal.
It’s a great place to stop for the night if you want to break up the final stage to Santiago. Staying here means you’ve got just over 20 km left the next day, enough for a good final walk, but not too long. It also keeps you out of the busy crowds that start packing into O Pedrouzo. A calm last night on the Camino.
Santiago
605 km (376 miles) to Santiago
The final walk from A Rúa to Santiago is just over 20 km, and it’s a mix of emotions, excitement, nerves, maybe a bit of sadness that it’s nearly over.
The path takes you through more eucalyptus forests, country roads, and the usual scatter of small villages. You’ll pass through places like Amenal, San Paio, and Lavacolla (yep, that’s the spot where medieval pilgrims used to wash up before entering Santiago). There are a few hills, but nothing too brutal, just enough to remind your legs that they’ve done a lot of work.
As you get closer, things start to feel more urban. The Camino winds through Santiago’s outskirts—past roundabouts, busy roads, and modern suburbs. Then you reach Monte do Gozo—“Mount Joy”—a small hill with sweeping views of the city. For many pilgrims, it’s where you catch your first glimpse of the cathedral towers. From there, it’s a steady walk downhill into the heart of Santiago.
The last stretch through the city streets can feel a bit long, but suddenly you’re there, turning a corner into the Praza do Obradoiro, and there it is: the cathedral. The finish line. You made it.
I like your descriptions very much as I am about to head over from Australia. I am most likely starting from Astorga or Ponferrada – trying to decide also whether to go to Finisterre. Thanks for sharing.