Section 4
Logroño to Burgos
This next stretch of the Camino takes you from Logroño to Burgos, about 120 kilometres (75 miles) over four or five days. You’ll begin among the sun-drenched vineyards of La Rioja, maybe sneaking a grape or two, before the vines gradually give way to vast wheat and barley fields. The route takes you through the historic towns of Nájera and Santo Domingo de la Calzada, both steeped in Camino history and full of stories, before eventually crossing from La Rioja into Castilla y León. Along the way, you might end up sleeping in a monastery or on a mat in the loft of a church. You will also pass an area where some of the oldest human remains in Europe were discovered, and it all culminates with the jaw-dropping Gothic cathedral in Burgos, easily one of the finest in Europe.
Logroño
605 km (376 miles) to Santiago
It’s about 10 km to Navarrete with no shops, so stock up before you set off. Leaving Logroño, the busy city streets quickly fall away, and you’ll soon reach the tranquil La Grajera Nature Reserve. Follow the path through the park until you reach a reservoir teeming with birdlife. Continue on, and the nature reserve gives way to scrubby paths alongside busy roads, with a little uphill walking and several bridges over the traffic. It’s not the most inspiring stretch; it has to be said. But then Navarrete comes into view, perched on a hill surrounded by vineyards, and if you squint and block out the trucks, it looks pretty picturesque.
Navarrete
601 km (374 miles) to Santiago
I really liked this town. It’s not too busy, as it sits between two popular stage ends, Logroño and Nájera, so there’s usually no shortage of beds. If the bar-hopping and pinchos didn’t tempt you in Logroño, I’d definitely earmark Navarrete as a great place to end a day.
As you walk up the small hill into Navarrete, you’ll pass the remains of the 12th-century San Juan de Acre, once a pilgrim hospital. There’s not much left, just the foundations, but you can imagine what it might have once looked like.
At the centre of town is the Church of the Assumption, and you really should step inside. There you’ll find a gloriously over-the-top altar, dripping in gold and extravagantly decorated. The altar is ornate to the point of being gaudy and feels completely out of proportion with the rest of the church and the town. I was told that a wealthy local, determined not to leave his fortune to his children, donated what would have been their inheritance to the church when he died instead. True or not, somebody clearly wasn’t afraid to splash the cash. Quick note: You’ll need to drop a €1 coin into the donation box to turn on the lights.
If you’re staying the night in Navarrete, definitely walk up to the top of the hill, the Tedeón, where an old castle once stood. There’s a small picnic area and great views of the surrounding countryside.
You’ll also find lots of little cafés tucked away in the side streets of Navarette. My favourite is Restaurante La Iglesia, just to the right of the church. It’s a great place to sit outside, relax, and watch the world go by. They also have a cosy albergue upstairs. Another great place to stay is Albergue La Casa de Ángel, a peaceful, friendly spot that offers a vegan communal dinner.
Ventosa
595 km (370 miles) to Santiago
The next stretch is pleasant enough, mostly tracks through vineyards, though at times you’re right beside a busy road.
Keep an eye out for a minor detour to the village of Ventosa on your left. It only adds about 2 km to your day, but it’s absolutely worth it. For one thing, it gets you away from the traffic. But more than that, the locals have created a little art trail they call “El kilómetro de Arte” with installations dotted along the way. It’s worth slowing down and taking it all in.
Ventosa itself is a lovely little village with a couple of cafés and, if you’re up for a brief climb, a fine church with panoramic views over the surrounding countryside. There is also a fine albergue, Albergue San Saturnino, in the village.
Najera
584 km (363 miles) to Santiago
The walk from Ventosa to Nájera is about 11 km and pretty relaxed, mostly dirt tracks winding through farmland and vineyards, with a few gentle climbs but nothing major. The inital stretch coming into Nájera is a little industrial and not the prettiest, but it improves quickly as you reach the centre. As you get closer, the red sandstone cliffs rise steeply behind the town, creating a dramatic backdrop.
Keep walking until you reach the river. I really like the grassy riverside banks lined with restaurants and terraces. It is the perfect spot to stretch out for a quick nap on a sultry afternoon, with the river drifting quietly by.
The big draw in Nájera is the Monastery of Santa María la Real, which sits right beneath the red cliffs. It was founded in the 11th century on the site of a cave where a king is said to have had a vision of the Virgin Mary. The thick walls and buttresses give it a fortress-like feel. Inside, you will find royal tombs, a peaceful cloister, and the original cave chapel.
Also, the famous Monastery of San Millán de la Cogolla is about 15 km from Nájera. If you’re taking a rest day in Nájera, it’s well worth a visit. The site actually comprises two monasteries: Suso, the older one built into the rock, and Yuso, the larger and more ornate monastery below. Together, they’re considered the birthplace of written Spanish, and the entire complex is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A local bus runs out there at least once a day, but a taxi is probably the easier option.
There are lots of places to stay in Nájera, including a popular municipal albergue. I also really liked Albergue Puerta de Nájera down by the river. It has real character, a boutique guesthouse with a slightly shabby-chic feel. It fills up fast, so book ahead.
Azofra
578 km (359 miles) to Santiago
From Nájera to Azofra, it is about 6 km and pretty straightforward. You leave Nájera by crossing the river and climbing gently out of the valley. Azofra is a small village with just one main street. It’s got a couple of cafés, a shop, and a popular municipal albergue, which is known for having twin rooms instead of bunk beds, which feels like a bit of a luxury at this stage of the Camino. There’s also a little foot-soaking fountain out back, perfect for weary feet.
By this stage, you will probably be about 10 days into your walk and will start really feeling the Camino magic. One thing I have always pondered about is whether nice people walk the Camino, or walking the Camino makes people nice. There is something genuinely unique about the atmosphere. In almost any other setting, if you spotted a group of strangers having dinner and pulled up a chair to join them with barely an introduction, you’d probably get some very puzzled looks. Here, it’s just the norm. It can almost feel rude not to join in. The usual social barriers seem to all disappear. People become remarkably open. Everyone seems to want to chat, tell their story, or hear yours. Conversations that might take months to happen or never happen at all back home often take place within minutes of meeting.
Cirueña
569 km (354 miles) to Santiago
Carry on for a few kilometres through farmland and along quiet tracks, and then, out of nowhere, the Camino cuts straight through a golf course. If you fancy a round, go for it, though, as Mark Twain supposedly said, “Golf is simply a good walk spoiled.”
Shortly after the golf course, you pass through an eerily empty town. Wide streets, modern houses, but barely a soul around. It has the unsettling feel of a zombie apocalypse movie, the kind where the camera drifts through a deserted suburb, wondering where everyone went. The town is one of those developments that mushroomed just before the 2008 financial crash, but has sat largely empty for years. Just keep walking.
At the edge of the new development, you’ll find Cirueña, a sleepy little village with the quirky Hostel Virgen de Guadalupe.
Santo Domingo de la Canada
564 km (350 miles) to Santiago
The walk from Cirueña to Santo Domingo de la Calzada is just under 6 km and easy enough. It’s mostly downhill or flat, through open fields. Santo Domingo is another of those classic Camino towns and is named after Domingo de la Calzada, literally “Domingo of the Road,” a hermit who devoted his life to helping pilgrims by clearing paths and building roads, bridges, and hospitals along the route, and was later canonised as a saint. The cathedral is the undisputed highlight of the town and is famous for one of the more unusual sights of live roosters and hens kept in a coop right there in the church.
They are a living reminder of one of the Camino’s best-loved legends. A young German pilgrim was travelling to Santiago with his parents when they stopped at an inn in Santo Domingo to rest. The innkeeper’s daughter fell for him, but he did not reciprocate her feelings. Furious, she hid a silver cup in his bag and reported him to the authorities. They convicted him of theft and executed him by hanging. His heartbroken parents continued on to Santiago, and on their return, stopped to say a last farewell to their son. To their amazement, he was still hanging from the rope, but alive.
They rushed to the local judge, who was sitting down to a meal of roasted rooster. Sceptical, he laughed and told them their son was as alive as the roasted bird he was about to eat. At that exact moment, the plucked bird stood up, flapped its wings, and crowed. The boy was cut down, and the chickens, or at least their descendants, have had a home in the cathedral ever since.
The town itself has everything you need: bars, restaurants, shops, and a nice buzz, especially in the evening when pilgrims gather around the square. There are plenty of good albergues in Santo Domingo. The Albergue de Peregrinos Cofradía del Santo, which is run by one of the oldest brotherhoods on the Camino. It’s right in the centre, big, lively, and full of Camino energy. If you’re after something a bit quieter, Albergue Abadía Cisterciense is a peaceful spot run by Cistercian nuns. It’s simple, clean, and very welcoming.
Grañón
555 km (345 miles) to Santiago
Leaving Santo Domingo, you cross the river Río Oja, whose name was fused to give the region its name, Rioja. From there, the path runs alongside a rural road, passing through open fields and farmland. It’s a flat, easy 7 km walk to Grañón.
Grañón is one of the most special villages on the Camino. Perched on a small hill, there’s a lovely rest area with a cool little food truck when you first arrive in the village, where you can grab a coffee, a smoothie, or even a cocktail. As you walk into the village, there’s a bar on the right, and up in the main square, there’s another one that feels more like a local social club, tucked upstairs, full of farmers swapping stories and local gossip.
What truly makes Grañón unforgettable is the Albergue Parroquial San Juan Bautista, next to the church. This donativo is, without a doubt, one of my favourite places to stay on the Camino Francés.
I completed my first Camino by bike and stopped briefly in Grañón to chat with a few people before pressing on. It was still morning, and I had ground to cover. But something about the place stuck with me. Back home, I couldn’t stop thinking about it, yet I couldn’t remember the village’s name. So I did what any obsessive would do: I opened Google Street View, found roughly where I thought it was on the route, and slowly followed the path online until I tracked it down.
The following year, walking the Camino for the first time, I was determined to stay in the village. When I arrived, I had a look around and found the Albergue Parroquial tucked inside the church. It is easy to miss, as you have to walk around the back to find the entrance.
But what a find! It is incredible. To enter, you climb a spiral stone staircase that feels like it belongs in a castle, and at the top, you step straight into the albergue.
The welcome is unforgettable. There is always soup simmering on the stove, and tea is pressed into your hands the moment you arrive. They hand you a mat, and you can choose a place to sleep, either in the attic above the kitchen or down in the basement. In summer, choose the basement as it is much cooler.
Dinner is a communal affair where everyone pitches in, the wine flows freely, and, if the weather is kind, the meal spills out into the small garden outside, making it feel even more magical.
After dinner, everyone is invited up to the choir loft for a candlelit reflection. Sitting together in the quiet of the church, people share their hopes, worries, challenges, and intentions for the journey ahead. A very special moment where strangers become something more.
Redecilla del Camino
551 km (339 miles) to Santiago
You now leave La Rioja behind and enter Spain’s largest autonomous region, Castilla y León. This stretch has a few small hamlets and some of my favourite albergues. You are genuinely spoilt for choice here.
The first village you reach is Redecilla del Camino, a small, peaceful place that has been welcoming pilgrims for centuries. The municipal albergue is named after San Lázaro, who cared for pilgrims here as far back as the 13th century, while Albergue Essentia, run by José, a veteran pilgrim, serves an excellent communal dinner.
Viloria de Rioja
551 km (339 miles) to Santiago
Next comes the hamlet of Viloria de Rioja, home to two fabulous albergues. First is Albergue Acacio y Orietta, named after its two hospitaleros, one from Brazil and one from Italy. Set in a warm, traditional stone house, this is one of my favourite albergues on the Camino. Open the door, and you’re greeted by the soft sound of sitar music and the gentle scent of incense. The whole place has a peaceful, calming atmosphere. The evening communal meal is a real highlight too; the potato and broccoli soup was superb.
The albergue has a famous backer: Paulo Coelho, the New Age spiritual author whose books have sold over 350 million copies worldwide, making him one of the bestselling authors of all time. He walked the Camino himself before writing his first book, The Pilgrimage. His follow-up book, The Alchemist, is one of my favourite books. A gentle, childlike story about a young shepherd boy chasing his dreams and discovering that what he is searching for was within him all along. It is a masterpiece. Read it before you go or better still, tuck a copy into your bag and save it for the trail. It will open your heart, no matter what age you are.
Albergue Parada Viloria is another absolutely charming albergue. Run by the wonderful Mariaje, this beautifully restored traditional farmhouse is full of character. The donation-based communal meal is a real highlight, with Mariaje often serving up a feast for pilgrims, including her fantastic homemade paella.
Belorado
540 km (335 miles) to Santiago
The walk into Belorado is pleasant. As you arrive, you’ll pass Albergue A Santiago on your right, a fun little spot, which has a swimming pool, then continue downhill.
Belorado, a small market town, is not the most picturesque on the Camino, with some crumbling buildings sitting below the ruins of an old castle. But it makes up for that with large, colourful murals painted all over town.
At the heart of Belorado is the Plaza Mayor, a big, slightly sleepy square with a few cafés and restaurants. The town also boasts a few churches worth seeing, including Iglesia de Santa María, Iglesia de San Pedro, and the Monasterio de Santa Clara. In 2024, the Monasterio de Santa Clara unexpectedly made headlines around the world when its community of Poor Clare nuns broke away from the Catholic Church to join a more conservative group. The church excommunicated them and had them evicted from the convent. A very odd story.
If you are looking for something very different in Belorado, check out the odd, quirky Museo de Radiocomunicación Inocencio Bocanegra, which has a fascinating collection of vintage radios and old communication gear. You might need to make reservations, so visit their website.
Belorado has two annual festivals that are worth keeping in mind if you’re planning your Camino. The first is the Feria Alfonsina, held on the first weekend of June. The whole town steps back into the Middle Ages to celebrate the royal charter granted by King Alfonso I in 1116, which gave Belorado the right to hold one of Spain’s earliest official markets. Locals dress in medieval costume for the recreation of the charter in the Plaza Mayor, while the streets fill with artisan stalls, traditional food, music, street theatre, falconry displays and medieval combat demonstrations.
The second is the Fiestas de Gracias, held from Thursday to Monday around the first Sunday in September. The festival features traditional morning bull runs, bullfighting events, colourful processions, the famous Danzadores de Belorado, live music, open-air dances and late-night celebrations in the Plaza Mayor.
There are plenty of albergues in town, including a municipal and a small donativo. One of my favourites is Albergue Cuatro Cantones, just off the main square, and it is one of the main reasons I would recommend stopping in Belorado. It has a lovely little garden and a small pool with a canopy. It is not really big enough to swim in, but perfect for a quick dip after a hot day. There is grass all around, just enough space to stretch out and relax. A perfect spot to idle away a lazy afternoon. They also have a great restaurant with communal sittings, and on many evenings it feels as though half the town turns up for dinner. Out in the garden, you will find dome-shaped pods, a little pricier but a unique place to spend the night. If there were a prize for the best-run albergue on the Camino, these guys would surely win.
Belorado may not be the prettiest town on the Camino, but you get the sense the locals are really trying, and that’s a big part of why I like it so much.
Tosantos
535 km (332 miles) to Santiago
About 3 km further on, you will reach Tosantos, a tiny village you could almost miss on a bend in the road. Don’t. It is home to one of the most special donativo albergues on the Camino, Albergue Parroquial San Francisco de Asís, lovingly run by José Luis, a man deeply committed to preserving the true spirit of the Camino. Like Grañón, there are no beds, just mats on the wooden floor in a simple, old building.
Before dinner, you will be taken on a fascinating tour of the Ermita de la Peña, a small chapel built into the cliffs overlooking the village. Everyone then gathers to help prepare the communal meal together, a simple affair full of warmth, shared effort, and friendly conversation.
After dinner comes something harder to describe. You gather for a quiet reflection, a kind of prayer circle. Each pilgrim writes a personal message on a card, reasons for walking, private challenges, moments of joy, which are stored away. You then draw cards written by past pilgrims and read them aloud. It is deeply moving. There are a lot of tears.
Espinosa del Camino
532 km (328 miles) to Santiago
Espinosa del Camino is a tiny, peaceful village with just a handful of houses and about 40 residents.
There’s a small 16th-century church and the ruins of an old monastery nearby, but not much else.
Villafranca Montes de Oca
528 km (338 miles) to Santiago
Villafranca Montes de Oca has a bit of a roadside, truck-stop feel. As you enter the village, you’ll come to Nuevo Mesón Alba, a popular stop with both truck drivers and pilgrims, serving hearty local food, pintxos, grilled meats, pork scratchings and black pudding.
Just beyond it is Hotel & Albergue San Antón Abad, a beautifully restored 14th-century pilgrims’ hospital where you can choose to stay in either the hotel or the albergue.
The next 10km from Villafranca Montes de Oca to the Monastery of San Juan are absolutely lovely. You’ll be walking on a forest path the whole way, surrounded by pine trees. There’s a good steep climb at the start, but it soon levels out, with a few gentle ups and downs along the way.
At the top of the climb, you’ll come across a Civil War memorial at Alto de la Pedraja. This memorial marks one of the biggest mass graves from the early days of the Spanish Civil War. Francoist forces executed around 300 people here in the summer of 1936. Most were teachers, union members, and local activists.
The site was left untouched for decades. It wasn’t until 2006, after years of pressure from families and historical memory groups, that excavations began, and over 100 bodies were recovered. It’s a quiet, sobering spot in the woods, and a good place to pause and reflect.
This is a quiet, isolated stretch, genuinely peaceful. I’ve walked it in the late afternoon without seeing another soul.
San Juan de Ortega
516 km (320 miles) to Santiago
Eventually, the trees open into a clearing, and the Monastery of San Juan de Ortega, which has been offering shelter to pilgrims for nearly 900 years, appears. It was founded in the 12th century by Juan, who was inspired by the good work of Santo Domingo de la Calzada up the road.
Twice a year, on the spring and autumn equinoxes, at about 11 in the morning, a shaft of sunlight shines through a small window and perfectly illuminates a carved scene of the Annunciation on a column inside the church. This is known as the Miracle of Light. The effect can also be seen, though a little less precisely, on the day before and the day after the equinox. You don’t need tickets; just cross your fingers for a clear sky.
There’s an albergue inside the old monastery next to the church, with two simple rooms lined with bunk beds. It’s a bit austere and can feel cold, especially in early spring or late autumn, but it has that old-school Camino charm: no frills, just a bed, and a sense of history all around you. You check in at the small café in front of the albergue, which also serves coffee and snacks. Just next door, there’s another little café where you can get a hearty dinner.
If you’re looking for a bit more comfort, there are two other lovely albergues nearby.
One recently opened, Albergue La Cuadra de Luisito, sits right beside the monastery and gets great reviews, especially for its fabulous food. www.alberguelacuadra.com
The other El Descanso de San Juan is just at the entrance to the hamlet as you walk in and is also very charming, with a little bar that serves great pizza.
From the monastery, it’s about 27 km to Burgos, and to be honest, it’s not the most exciting stretch of the Camino. The scenery flattens out; the road gets somewhat repetitive, and the approach into the city can feel long and urban. Taxis tend to lurk outside the monastery in the mornings, their engines quietly running, anticipating that a few weary pilgrims might want to skip ahead. If you’re ever going to skip any section of the Camino, this might just be the place. No shame in it; everyone walks their own way.
Ages
512 km (318 miles) to Santiago
It’s 4 more km to Agés, a lovely little village and a great place to spend the evening before the long walk into Burgos.
There’s a small church tucked away at the back of the village, a couple of friendly albergues, including Albergue Fagus in an old hay barn, and a cracking little restaurant called El Alquimista that serves proper local food. Definitely try the gazpacho.
Atapuerca
510km (317 miles) to Santiago
Just 2 km past Agés, you come to Atapuerca, a small, quiet village with a few albergues and rural guesthouses, another good stopping point before heading on to Burgos. The village is best known for the nearby Sierra de Atapuerca archaeological site, where some of the oldest human remains in Europe were discovered. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The actual cave entrance is about 3 km off the Camino, and you cannot simply stroll in. You need to book a guided tour, usually the day before you plan to visit.
Most pilgrims do not make the detour, as the extra kilometres can feel tough after a full day’s walking. If you are interested in the history but do not fancy the additional hike, the Museum of Human Evolution in Burgos displays many of the original fossils and explains the discoveries in much more detail.
Atapuerca is also home to one of my favourite albergues on the Camino, InPulse Atapuerca Hostel. Run by the wonderful Estrella, it’s one of those places that pilgrims rave about. The interior looks like something from a fairy tale, the food is delicious, the cosy fireplace is the perfect spot to share a glass of wine and swap Camino stories, and Estrella somehow remembers every pilgrim’s name. It’s the kind of place you almost don’t want to recommend because it feels like a hidden gem, but it really is one of the Camino’s most memorable overnight stops.
Burgos
490 km (305 miles) to Santiago
The walk from Atapuerca to the regal city of Burgos is about 17 km and, honestly, it can be a bit of a slog. The official path takes you through roughly 10 km of an industrial zone and is not exactly a highlight of the Camino. There is an “alternative” scenic route that is slightly better. It loops around the back of the airport and avoids some of the worst of the industrial sprawl. To take the alternative route, after leaving Orbaneja, cross the bridge over the highway and turn immediately left off the main path. This takes you around the airport and eventually into Burgos through a city park.
Either way, it’s not the prettiest stage, but the rewards for your efforts are incredible when you see the spires of Burgos Cathedral rise in the distance for the very first time. A long day, but a memorable finish.
Burgos is a big city and a significant milestone on the Camino Francés. Many pilgrims take a rest day, and for good reason. The city is packed with history. You will enter the old city through the Arco de Santa María, a grand medieval gateway, and then, there it is: Burgos Cathedral. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of the most stunning buildings you will ever see, a masterpiece that looks as if angels built it.
Even if you’re not big into churches, you absolutely have to take a tour and give yourself a few hours. It’s just incredible. Inside, you’ll find soaring Gothic architecture, spectacular stained-glass windows, richly decorated chapels, and the famous Golden Staircase. Look closely, and you’ll also spot countless carved saints, kings, animals, monsters, gargoyles, and mythical creatures hidden throughout the building. In the centre of it all lies the surprisingly simple tomb of El Cid and his wife, Doña Jimena, a modest resting place for one of Spain’s greatest heroes.
And keep an eye out for a strange medieval character called the Papamoscas, or the “Fly Catcher, high above the nave, always a fan favourite. Every hour, he opens and closes his mouth while striking the bell, looking as though he is trying to catch flies. The Cathedral opens every day at 10 am and costs about €6 to enter with your pilgrim passport. Also on Friday and Sunday evenings at 9:30 pm, they host a very impressive light-and-sound show inside the cathedral. Check the cathedral’s website to buy tickets.
The Museum of Human Evolution is also worth a visit. It’s only about a five-minute walk from the Cathedral along the river, passing an impressive statue of El Cid thrusting his sword forward from the middle of a busy roundabout. Admission is only around €4 with your pilgrim credential. The museum has a 1980s Smithsonian feel. It’s well done, but definitely leans towards the scientific side. Much of it focuses on the nearby digs at Atapuerca and the discoveries made there, but there are also sections on more general aspects of human evolution, including Darwin and his voyage aboard the Beagle, and the development of the brain.
I must admit, on the day I visited, maybe I was just tired, but it wasn’t fully resonating with me. There seemed to be just an awful lot of bones. Then I found myself beside a group of local schoolchildren who looked equally unimpressed until the guide casually mentioned that some of the early humans used to eat each other. Suddenly, the place came alive. The kids began gleefully shouting “Cannibalismo! Cannibalismo!” as they raced off to tell their friends. Their excitement grew as they climbed through the museum, discovering the life-sized reconstructions of our ancient ancestors, with their bits showing. The kids reached peak excitement when they reached the top floor and its augmented-reality screens, where they could replace their heads with those of Neanderthals. I had to join in.
The one thing I learnt at the museum was just how far down the pecking order we early humans were. There were lots of displays of flint, and I imagined brave hunters tying flint points to wooden spears and charging heroically after mammoths and sabre-toothed tigers. The reality was a lot less glamorous. We were often more scavengers than hunters, and only after the lions and wolves had finished would we move in with our flint tools to crack open the remaining bones of the kill and extract the marrow. We have come a long way.
For the rest of the day, wander through Burgos’ old town, explore the markets, and stop for a café con leche or a glass of wine in one of the squares while you watch the world go by. And if you still have some energy left, make the climb up to the Castillo de Burgos. It’s a steep walk, but the views over the city and cathedral are well worth the effort.
Burgos has some great festivals. The biggest is the Sampedros (San Pedro y San Pablo) in late June, a week-long celebration with concerts, parades, fireworks, giant puppets, traditional dancers, street parties, food stalls, and plenty of late-night drinking.
Another highlight is Noche Blanca (White Night) in late May. Museums, churches, theatres, and historic buildings stay open late, with concerts, performances, art installations, and cultural events taking place across the city.
The Albergue Municipal de Peregrinos is just behind the Cathedral. It is huge, with around 150 beds, but it is well-run and surprisingly efficient for its size. There is also a superb little bar just across the street, called Café Babia. It’s a real little gathering spot for pilgrims and a good place to try morcilla, Burgos’s local blood sausage.
If you prefer a smaller, more religious atmosphere, Albergue Santiago y Santa Catalina, with around 20 beds, is a lovely option.
My favourite hotel in Burgos is the 3-star Crisol Mesón del Cid. It’s a characterful historic hotel perfectly positioned directly in front of the cathedral. Rooms are usually around €100 per night. Make sure to book a room with a view of the cathedral. Opening the shutters in the morning and seeing the cathedral right outside your window is magical.
Quick Insight
Burgos’s favourite son is Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar, better known as El Cid, which comes from an Arabic word for the master. He is one of Spain’s great national heroes. You will see statues of him and streets and squares named after him everywhere in Burgos. He was born near Burgos around 1043 and earned a reputation as a brilliant warrior who fought for many sides during the Spanish Reconquista. One year fighting for a Christian ruler, the next year a Muslim one, I guess whoever paid best. His greatest achievement was the capture of Valencia in 1094, which he ruled independently for several years. His exploits became immortalised in the epic poem The Song of El Cid.
He might also be history’s most successful corpse. After he died in 1099, legend says that when the city of Valencia came under threat, his followers strapped his body to his horse, dressed him in armour, and sent him out in front of the troops. The sight of the supposedly unstoppable warrior riding out once more terrified the enemy and won the day.
If you want to while away a Sunday afternoon, his story is told in a sweeping Golden Age Hollywood epic starring Charlton Heston and Sophia Loren. It is probably not the most historically accurate portrayal, but it is great fun.
