Section 4
Logroño to Burgos
This next stretch of the Camino takes us from Logroño to Burgos. It’s about 95 kilometres and takes four or five days as we walk through quiet, charming villages and towns. Early on, we climb over the Hill of Forgiveness, then descend into the farmlands of Navarre and onto the vineyards of Rioja. You might get swept up in a bull run, pluck grapes as you wander through sun-drenched vineyards, pour a drink from a wine fountain, sleep on a mat in a church loft, or spend an evening in Logroño hopping between pintxo bars.
Logroño
605.7 KM to Santiago
Leaving Logroño, it’s about 10 km to Navarrete, with no shops along the way—so stock up before you go. It doesn’t take long to leave the busy city streets behind and cross a bridge into a peaceful park. Follow the path through the park and you’ll reach a small lake and nature reserve. You’ll likely spot birdwatchers with cameras, ducks on the water, and plenty of rabbits and squirrels.
Eventually, the reserve ends and you’re back on scrubby paths with busy roads nearby. There’s a bit of uphill walking towards the end, and although it’s not the most pleasant stretch—crossing several bridges over traffic—Navarrete finally comes into view. It sits on a hill surrounded by vineyards, and if you squint your eyes and block out the trucks, it almost looks quite pretty.
Navarrete
593.2 KM to Santiago
As you walk up the small hill into Navarrete, you’ll pass the remains of the 12th-century San Juan de Acre, once a pilgrim hospital. There’s not much left—just the footprint—but you can imagine what it might have looked like. I kind of skipped it. Anywhere else in the world, this would be so impressive, but when on the Camino, you pass 12th-century buildings still in use, an architectural dig of one doesn’t quite impress in the same way.
At the top of the hill, Navarrete greets you with narrow streets, warm stone buildings, and a relaxed feel. At the centre of town is the Church of the Assumption, which is well worth a visit.
If you’re staying the night, consider walking up to the Tedeón where the old castle once stood. There’s a small picnic area and great views of the surrounding countryside.
You’ll also find lots of little cafés tucked away in the side streets. My favourite is Restaurante La Iglesia, just to the right of the church. It’s a great place to sit outside, relax, and people-watch. They also have a cosy albergue upstairs. Another great place to stay is Albergue La Casa de Ángel, a peaceful, friendly spot that offers a vegan communal dinner.
I really liked this town. It’s not too busy, as it sits between two main stopping points—Logroño and Nájera—so there’s usually no shortage of beds. If you’re walking 20–25 km days and aren’t tempted by the bar-hopping and pinchos in Logroño, I’d definitely bookmark Navarrete as a great place to stay.
Ventosa
587.1 KM to Santiago
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Najera
577.0 KM to Santiago
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Azofra
571.4 KM to Santiago
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Cirueña
562.2 KM to Santiago
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Santo Domingo de la Canada
556.3 KM to Santiago
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Grañón
549.3 KM to Santiago
Leaving Santo Domingo, you cross the River Oja on a bridge linked to Saint Dominic. From there, the path runs alongside the N-120, passing through open fields and farmland. It’s a flat, easy 7 km walk to Grañón—quiet, rural, and peaceful.
Grañón is perched on a small hill. For me, it’s one of the most special villages on the Camino. It’s a quiet, sleepy little place, and right at the top of the hill there’s a lovely rest area with a cool little food truck. You can grab a coffee, a smoothie, or even a cocktail if the mood strikes.
As you walk into the village, there’s a bar on the right, and in the main square you’ll find another bar that feels like a local social club—upstairs, I swear all the local farmers are in there chatting away.
But what really makes Grañón unforgettable is the Albergue Parroquial San Juan Bautista, part of the church. You might miss it if you don’t know to go around the back. Once inside, though, it’s amazing. You climb an old spiral stone staircase—it feels like entering a castle—and suddenly you’re in this warm, welcoming space.
You’re greeted with a cup of tea or soup on the stove, and then given a mat to sleep wherever you like—either in the cozy basement or up in the attic above the kitchen.
Dinner is communal, simple, and full of heart. Everyone helps out, the wine flows, and if the weather’s good, you eat in the little garden out back—pure magic.
Later, there’s a candlelit reflection up in the church’s choir loft. It’s peaceful and moving, with everyone invited to share their thoughts or intentions. Honestly, it’s one of those Camino moments you carry with you long after the walk is done.
Redecilla del Camino
545.6 M to Santiago
You now leave La Rioja behind and enter the province of Castilla y León. The first village you hit is Redecilla del Camino—a small, peaceful spot that’s been welcoming pilgrims for centuries. The municipal albergue is named after San Lázaro, who is said to have cared for pilgrims here way back in the 13th century.
Belorado
533.7 KM to Santiago
The walk into Belorado is pleasant, you pass Albergue A Santiago on your right, which has a swimming pool, as you arrive into town.
Continue downhill. Belorado is not the most picturesque town on the Camino, with some crumbling buildings sitting below the remains of an old castle. But it makes up for that with large colourful murals, which are painted all over town.
At the heart of Belorado is the Plaza Mayor—a large, kind of sleepy square with a few cafés and restaurants. Just off the square is Albergue Cuatro Cantones, one of my favourite albergues on the Camino and the main reason I’d recommend staying in Belorado.The albergue has a charming little garden out back, perfect for hanging out. There’s a small pool with a canopy over it—not big enough to swim in, but ideal for a dip after a hot day’s walk. It’s surrounded by grass—just enough space to stretch out and relax. A perfect spot to idle away an afternoon.
They also have a great restaurant that does group sittings for all the guests, and honestly, it feels like half the town shows up. If there were a prize for best-run albergue on the Camino, these guys would surely win.
If you have time, pop into the quirky Museo de Radiocomunicación Inocencio Bocanegra, which has a fascinating collection of vintage radios and old communication gear.
The town also has a few churches worth seeing, including Iglesia de Santa María, Iglesia de San Pedro, and the Monasterio de Santa Clara, also known as Nuestra Señora de Bretonera.
Belorado might not be the most stunning stop, but I always feel like the locals here are trying hard.
Tosantos
529.0 KM to Santiago
Continue on for another 3 km and you’ll reach Tosantos—a tiny village you could almost miss on a bend in the road. But don’t. Tosantos is home to one of my favourite albergues on the entire Camino.
It’s run by Father José Luis, who is passionate about keeping the original spirit of the Camino alive. Like Grañón, there are no beds—just mats on the floor in a simple, old building. Before dinner, we were given a fascinating tour of the Ermita de la Peña, a small church built into the cliffs overlooking the village.
Afterwards, everyone helped prepare the communal evening meal. It was simple, with no wine, but full of warmth, shared effort, and good conversation. After dinner, we gathered for a quiet reflection—a kind of prayer circle. We each wrote a message on a card, sharing why we were walking the Camino or something personal we were carrying. Then we drew cards written by past pilgrims, complete strangers.
Reading those words aloud was incredibly moving—there were tears, laughter, and a strong feeling of connection among everyone there. This is one of those special places on the Camino you’ll never forget. A real gem worth seeking out.
Espinosa del Camino
522.0 KM to Santiago
Espinosa del Camino is a tiny, peaceful village with just a handful of houses and about 40 residents. It’s tucked into the Montes de Oca area and makes for a quiet break between Villambistia and Villafranca Montes de Oca.
There’s a small 16th-century church and the ruins of an old monastery nearby, but not much else—no cafés or shops. Still, it’s a nice little pause before heading into the hills.
Villafranca Montes de Oca
522.0 KM to Santiago
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San Juan de Ortega
510 KM to Santiago
The next 10km from Villafranca Montes de Oca to the Monastery of San Juan are absolutely lovely. You’ll be walking on a forest path the whole way, surrounded by pine trees. There’s a good steep climb at the start, but it soon levels out, with a few gentle ups and downs along the way. Eventually, you’ll come to a clearing where the monastery appears, quiet and isolated. It’s a really peaceful stretch—I’ve walked it in the late afternoon and not seen another soul.
The Monastery of San Juan de Ortega has been offering shelter to pilgrims for nearly 900 years. It was founded in the 12th century by San Juan de Ortega, a devoted follower of Santo Domingo de la Calzada.
There’s an albergue right inside the old monastery itself—two simple rooms lined with bunk beds. It’s a bit austere and can feel cold, especially in early spring or late autumn, but it has that old-school Camino charm: no frills, just a roof, a bed, and a sense of history all around you. You’ll check in at the small café in front of the albergue, which also serves coffee and snacks. Just next door, there’s another little café where you can get a warm, hearty dinner.
If you’re looking for a bit more comfort, there are two other lovely albergues nearby. One is recently opened and sits right beside the monastery, while the other is just at the entrance to the hamlet as you walk in. Both are more modern and cosy, but wherever you stay, the quiet, remote atmosphere of San Juan de Ortega makes it a very special stop on the Camino.
If you’re looking for a bit more comfort, there are two other lovely albergues nearby. One is recently opened and sits right beside the monastery, while the other is just at the entrance to the hamlet as you walk in. Both are more modern and cosy, but wherever you stay, the quiet, remote atmosphere of San Juan de Ortega makes it a very special stop on the Camino.
IFrom the monastery, it’s about 27 km to Burgos—and to be honest, it’s not the most exciting stretch of the Camino. The scenery flattens out, the road gets a bit repetitive, and the approach into the city can feel long and urban. There’s no bus from San Juan de Ortega to Burgos, but taxis do tend to show up in front of the monastery in the morning, almost like they know some pilgrims might be tempted.
If you’re ever going to skip a section of the Camino, this might just be the place. No shame in it—everyone walks their own way.
Ages
506. KM to Santiago
Continue on to Agés, a lovely little village and a great place to stop before the long walk into Burgos. There’s a small church tucked away at the back, a couple of friendly albergues, and a cracking little restaurant called El Alquimista that serves proper local food—definitely try the gazpacho.
Between the good meal and the chance to break up the stage into Burgos, it’s well worth staying the night here.
Atapuerca
503.8 KM to Santiago
Just 2km past Agés, you’ll come to Atapuerca, a small, quiet village that makes for another good stop before heading into Burgos. It’s best known for the nearby Sierra de Atapuerca archaeological site—where some of the oldest human remains in Europe were discovered. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and seriously fascinating stuff.
You’ll walk right past the entrance on your way out, but you can’t just stroll in—you’ll need to book a tour from Burgos. If you’ve got the time, it’s well worth doing.
The village itself is relaxed and friendly, with a few albergues and rural guesthouses
Burgos
483.8 KM to Santiago
The walk from Atapuerca to Burgos is about 17 km and, honestly, it can be a bit of a slog. If you’re thinking of skipping a section by bus or taxi, this is a solid one to skip. The main route takes you through roughly 10 km of industrial zone—not exactly the highlight of the Camino.
There is an “alternative” scenic route, but to be fair, it’s only slightly better. It loops around the back of the airport and avoids some of the worst of the industrial sprawl, but you’re still walking dusty tracks and passing through a couple of forgettable villages.
To get onto the alternative route: after leaving Orbaneja, cross the bridge over the highway and take an immediate leftoff the main route. This takes you around the airport and eventually into Burgos through a city park.
Either way, it’s not the prettiest stage—but if you stick it out, the reward is real. Seeing the spires of Burgos Cathedral rise up in the distance is a special moment. A long day, but one that ends well.
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