Section 2
Roncesvalles to Pamplona
After the strenuous climb over the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles, the Camino levels out and descends into Navarre. The stretch from Roncesvalles to Pamplona is about 45 to 50 km and takes most pilgrims two days. It’s mostly downhill or flat, with lovely walking through forests, riverside paths, and quiet little villages, following the Arga River.
Roncesvalles
742.7 KM to Santiago
Don’t count on sleeping in if you stay at the monastery albergue. The volunteers come through the dorms singing, waking everyone up at 6 am sharp. You don’t really have a choice. Time to get moving. There’s no breakfast served at the albergue, but there are a few vending machines downstairs if you want a quick coffee in a plastic cup before you head out.
Roncesvalles is one of the most popular places to start a stage on the Camino, so there’s usually a big crowd leaving in the morning at the same time. I like to hang back and let the main group get ahead—it makes for a quieter, more peaceful walk. Café Sabina opens around 8 a.m., so I usually stop there for a croissant and a proper coffee. By the time I set off, the path has thinned out, and you can hear the birds again.
Leaving Roncesvalles couldn’t be easier — just look for the road sign that says “Santiago de Compostela 790km.” and grab the obligatory selfie in front of it! The Camino path is just to the right of the sign. And if you’re wondering why it says 790km when your guidebook insists it’s 747, that’s because the road takes a more winding route, while the Camino goes more or less as the crow flies.
The path to Burguete takes you through peaceful beech and oak forests, gently downhill. Along the way, you’ll pass La Cruz Blanca (the White Cross), also known as Roland’s Cross. It was placed there in the 1600s to “purify” the forest of witches — apparently there were a few hanging around back then.
Burgete
740.1 KM to Santiago
The first village you will meet is Burgete. If you didn’t get breakfast in Roncesvalles, don’t worry—there’s a café right as you enter.
Burguete is best known as the fishing retreat for Jake Barnes, the main character in Hemingway’s The Sun Also Rises. When he wasn’t caught up in the frenzy of Pamplona’s bullfights, he came here for the tranquillity and the trout fishing. Hemingway himself stayed at Hotel Burguete, and the place is still in business.
As you walk through the village, keep an eye out for a sharp right turn back onto a path into open country. Interestingly, until now, you have been walking mostly south, and now, for the first time, you are turning decisively west in the direction of Santiago.
Espinal
736.4 KM to Santiago
The walk from Burguete to Espinal is gentle and relatively flat, winding through peaceful forests. As you approach Espinal, the trees begin to thin, and the village appears tucked into the rolling hills of Navarre. It’s a quiet place with a few bars and small shops, perfect for a coffee stop.
Biskarreta
730 KM to Santiago
Continue your walk to the village of Biskarreta, a quiet little place tucked into the hills. As you enter, you’ll spot a quirky café on the left with a giant old-fashioned weighing scale out front. It might be fun to weigh yourself here, and then again at the end of the Camino. To see what the road has taken… or given. The café itself is a lovely stop for a cold drink or a quick snack, with a few shaded tables outside.
As you leave Bizkarreta, just off the road and stretching into the field, you’ll find a strange and cheerful little place. It’s part art project, part local effort – rough around the edges but full of heart. The kind of place where someone cared enough to make something out of nothing. There are shelves of old books you can take or swap, and bits of artwork scattered around like someone just left them there for you to find. It’s not polished, but it doesn’t need to be.
Zuibiri
721 KM to Santiago
The stretch toward Zubiri gets steeper and rockier. It’s tough on the knees, so take it slow. When you reach the village, you’ll cross the River Arga over an old stone bridge called Puente de la Rabia (The Rabies Bridge). Local tradition says if you walk your animals across it three times, it’ll cure them of rabies. No idea if it works, not sure if I will ever get a chance to test the theory.
The river here is perfect for soaking tired feet. If you’re not planning to stop in Zubiri, you can just keep walking straight through. But I like Zubiri. It’s the biggest village between St. Jean and Pamplona, though that’s not saying much.
There are a bunch of good places to sleep and eat. The municipal albergue is nice, but my favourite is Albergue Suseia — it offers a warm welcome, good bunks, and a great communal dinner. You’ve probably gathered by now that I’m always on the lookout for any place that offers a communal meal. It’s one of the best parts of the Camino — sitting down at a long table with strangers who won’t feel like strangers by the end of dinner anymore.
Larrasoaña
715.6 KM to Santiago
Leave Zubiri by crossing back over the bridge to rejoin the Camino. From here, the path follows the river, crossing it several times. After about 5 km, you’ll reach Larrasoaña — a smaller village than Zubiri but another good place to overnight. At the back of the village is Albergue Nicolás. It’s a nice, quiet place to stay, with a small general store next door. The albergue has a lovely terrace where you can sit and relax, and it’s a great place to meet fellow pilgrims, as most people tend to gather there as there is not much else to do in the village.
If you’re a fan of The Way, it’s worth knowing that just past Larrasoaña is the village of Akerreta. The cast and crew stayed at Hotel Akerreta during filming—it’s the albergue where Martin Sheen’s character first meets the chain-smoking Canadian woman. In real life, it’s a beautifully restored 18th-century Basque farmhouse, full of charm and history.
Zabaldika
715.6 KM to Santiago
Continue on to Zabaldika. As you near the village, the path splits. Most pilgrims miss the fork and keep walking straight, never knowing what they’ve passed. But if you take the steeper trail uphill, it leads you to a hidden gem—the Iglesia de San Esteban, the Church of Saint Stephen. Inside the bell tower are two old bells, and pilgrims are invited to climb up and ring them.
Right next to the church is the Albergue Parroquial de Zabaldika, run by the Sisters of the Sacred Heart. It’s a donativo albergue, offering simple beds and a communal meal. Quiet, welcoming, and spiritual, it’s the kind of place that stays with you. This place is really special.
Pamplona
700.4 KM to Santiago
The walk-in is one of the best city approaches of the Camino. Later on, during your Camino, you’ll learn that walking into big cities usually means slogging through industrial estates and suburbs for hours. Not here. The approach to Pamplona feels like you’re still in the woods—green, quiet, almost rural—until suddenly you pop out at a Romanesque bridge. Cross it, and just like that, you’re in the city.
Right after the bridge, there’s a medieval monastery—Albergue de la Trinidad de Arre. I’ve never stayed there, but it looks peaceful, a good option if you want to skip the noise and bustle of central Pamplona. From there, it’s still about 4 km to the cathedral, walking through the suburbs.
The last stretch is very memorable. You climb a ramp along the old city wall and enter through the Portal de Francia—a big stone gate that once kept armies out. Now it welcomes pilgrims. When you get in, take a moment to look back from the ramparts over the green valleys you came through. Then turn around and dive into the old town. Cobbled streets, twisting alleys, cafés buzzing with life. Pamplona’s got energy, and you’ll feel it the minute you step inside.
Most people save their rest days for later, in towns like León or Burgos and Pamplona comes so early that stopping here for a rest day can feel almost indulgent. So you’re probably only here for a day, so you may as well make the most of it.
Pamplona is known for Hemingway and bullfighting, and it’s the kind of place where you let your hair down. It would be a shame not to. If you can, get there early in the day and take it all in.
I’d visit the cathedral. I’d find a good bar and try a few pinchos, the local take on tapas. The bullring is worth seeing, even if you’re not into that kind of thing. There’s also the Camino museum in town – not too big, but interesting enough to remind you you’re part of something ancient and bigger than yourself.
San Fermín, the famous running of the bulls, happens every year from July 6th to 14th. It’s more than wild. The whole city goes wild – everyone dressed in white, wearing red scarves, soaked in wine, with music everywhere, as kids, grannies, and tourists party all night long. It’s chaos. Think of the scene when Moses comes down the mountain and smashes the tablets – that kind of energy. I’ve never been shy of a party, but I went once, years ago, and it scared me off for good. Unless you’re really up for it, my advice would be to avoid Pamplona during San Fermín. If you’re looking to see bullfighting, you might have better luck later on – maybe in Puente la Reina or Los Arcos.
There are loads of places to stay in Pamplona. I usually go for a hotel so I’m not stuck with the 10 pm curfew. If you’re after an albergue, Jesús y María is a good choice, right across from the cathedral. If you’d rather avoid the buzz of the city, you could stay just before or after Pamplona and roll in fresh the next morning.
Pamplona is a fine city. It’s got energy and history and food and spirit. Don’t overthink it. Keep it simple. Let it all unfold.
