Section 2
Roncesvalles to Pamplona
After the tough climb over the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles, you’ll be glad to know it’s mostly downhill or flat from here to Pamplona. This 50 km stretch through Navarre and the Basque Country usually takes pilgrims two days, with beautiful walking through shady forests, riverside paths, meadows, and quiet little villages. You’ll cross old stone bridges and follow the gentle flow of the Arga River all the way toward lively Pamplona.
Roncesvalles
743 KM to Santiago
Don’t count on sleeping in if you stay at the monastery albergue. The volunteers come through the dorms singing, waking everyone up at 6 am sharp. You don’t really have a choice. Time to get moving. There’s no breakfast served at the albergue, but there are a few vending machines downstairs if you want a quick coffee in a plastic cup before you head out.
Roncesvalles is one of the most popular starting points on the Camino, so there’s usually a big crowd heading out at the same time in the morning. If you’re not in a rush, it’s worth hanging back and letting the pack go ahead; it makes for a much quieter, more peaceful walk. Café Sabina opens around 8 a.m., so grab a croissant and a proper coffee there. By the time you hit the trail, things will have thinned out and you’ll be able to hear the birds again.
Leaving Roncesvalles couldn’t be easier, just look for the road sign that says “Santiago de Compostela 790km” and grab the obligatory selfie in front of it! The Camino path is just to the right of the sign. And if you’re wondering why it says 790km when your guidebook insists it’s 747, that’s because the road takes a more winding route, while the Camino goes more or less as the crow flies.
The path to Burguete takes you through peaceful beech and oak forests, gently downhill. Along the way, you’ll pass La Cruz Blanca (the White Cross), also known as Roland’s Cross. It was placed there in the 1600s to “purify” the forest of witches; apparently, a few were hanging around back then.
Burgete
740 KM to Santiago
The first village you will meet is Burgete. If you didn’t get breakfast in Roncesvalles, don’t worry, there’s a café right as you enter.
Burguete is best known as the fishing retreat for Jake Barnes, the protagonist in Hemingway’s The Sun Also Rises. When he wasn’t caught up in the frenzy of Pamplona’s bullfights, he came here for the tranquillity and the trout fishing. Hemingway himself stayed at Hotel Burguete, and the place is still in business.
As you walk through the village, keep an eye out for a sharp right turn back onto a path into open country. Interestingly, until now you have been walking mostly south, and now, for the first time, you are turning decisively west toward Santiago.
Espinal
736.5 KM to Santiago
The walk from Burguete to Espinal is gentle and relatively flat, winding through peaceful forests. As you approach Espinal, the trees begin to thin, and the village appears tucked into the rolling hills of Navarre. It’s a quiet place with a few bars, perfect for a coffee stop.
Biskarreta
730 KM to Santiago
Continue your walk to the village of Biskarreta, a quiet little place tucked into the hills. As you enter, you’ll spot a quirky café on the left with a giant old-fashioned weighing scale out front. It might be fun to weigh yourself here, and then again at the end of the Camino. To see what the road has taken or given. The café itself is a lovely stop for a cold drink or a quick snack, with a few shaded tables outside.
As you leave Bizkarreta, just off the road, you’ll come across a quirky little spot that feels part art project, part local dream. Bits of artwork are scattered around as if left for you to discover, and shelves of old books invite you to take or swap one. This place is full of heart.
Zuibiri
721 KM to Santiago
The stretch toward Zubiri gets steeper and rockier. It’s tough on the knees, so take it slow. When you reach the village, you’ll cross the River Arga over an old stone bridge called Puente de la Rabia (The Rabies Bridge). Local tradition says if you walk your animals across it three times, it’ll cure them of rabies. No idea if it works, not sure if I will ever get a chance to test the theory.
The river here is perfect for soaking tired feet. Even if you’re not planning to stop in Zubiri, it’s a great spot to chill for a while and take a break.
There are plenty of good places to eat and sleep in Zubiri, but my favourite is Albergue Suseia, run by Sara, who is incredibly warm and welcoming. It has a really friendly vibe, comfy bunks (only 12), a lovely garden, and a cracking communal dinner with four home-cooked courses, great vegetarian options, and local ingredients. You have probably noticed by now that I am a big fan of albergues that offer a shared meal. It is one of the best parts of the Camino, sitting around a long table, meeting people from all over the world, and swapping stories. This is one of those places, and I would book well in advance because it fills up fast. Easily one of my favourite stays on the Camino.
Larrasoaña
715.5 KM to Santiago
Leave Zubiri by crossing back over the bridge to rejoin the Camino. From here, the path continues to follow the river, crossing it several times. After about 5 km, you’ll reach Larrasoaña, a smaller village than Zubiri but another good place to overnight. At the back of the village is Albergue Nicolás. It’s a nice, quiet place to stay, with a small general store across the road. The albergue has a lovely terrace where you can sit and relax, and it’s a great place to meet fellow pilgrims, as most people tend to gather there, since there is not much else to do in the village.
If you’re a fan of The Way, it’s worth knowing that just past Larrasoaña is the village of Akerreta. The cast and crew stayed at Hotel Akerreta during filming, which is the albergue where Martin Sheen’s character first meets the chain-smoking Canadian Sarah. In real life, it’s a beautifully restored 18th-century Basque farmhouse, full of charm and history.
Zabaldika
708.5 KM to Santiago
Continue on to Zabaldika. As you come into the tiny village, the path splits. The main trail veers left, and most pilgrims follow that route, never realising what they’ve missed. But if you take the small right-hand path, the one that climbs a bit uphill, you’ll find a hidden gem, the Iglesia de San Esteban, the Church of Saint Stephen. Inside the old bell tower are two ancient bells, and pilgrims are welcome to climb to the top and ring them.
Right next to the church is the Albergue Parroquial de Zabaldika, run by the Sisters of the Sacred Heart. It’s a donativo albergue with simple beds and a shared meal. Quiet, welcoming, and full of heart, it’s the kind of place that sticks with you. There’s just something really special about it.
Pamplona
700 KM to Santiago
The walk into Pamplona is one of the most memorable approaches to a city on the Camino. Later on, during your Camino, you’ll learn that walking into big cities usually means slogging through industrial estates and suburbs for hours. Not here. The approach to Pamplona feels like you’re still in the woods, green, quiet, rural, until suddenly you pop out at a Romanesque bridge. Cross it, and just like that, you’re in the city.
Right after the bridge, there’s a medieval monastery, Albergue de la Trinidad de Arre. I’ve never stayed there, but it looks peaceful, a good option if you want to skip the noise and bustle of central Pamplona.
From there, it’s about another 4 km walk through the suburbs to the cathedral. Cross the Magdalena Bridge and then it’s a short climb up a ramp along the old city walls, entering the historic centre through the Portal de Francia, a big stone gate that once kept armies out and now welcomes pilgrims.
When you get inside, pause on the ramparts and look back over the green valleys you’ve walked through. Then turn around and dive into the old town. Pamplona is a fantastic Basque city with narrow cobbled streets, grand old churches, bustling plazas filled with cafés and tapas bars, and loads of atmosphere.
Pamplona takes its name from the Roman general Pompey (the same fella who fought a civil war with Julius Caesar), who is said to have founded the city around 75 BC and named it Pompaelo after himself. But this being the Basque Country, locals insist the place existed long before the Romans and was known as Iruña, the name they still use today, which simply means “the city” in Basque. Either way, over the centuries, it grew into the capital of the old Kingdom of Navarre. It became one of the most important stops for pilgrims walking the Camino.
Most pilgrims save their rest days for later, in places like León or Burgos. Pamplona comes early, so taking a break here feels like a bit of a treat. But if you can spare the time, do it. If not, get in early and make the most of the day.
Start with a visit to the grand Gothic Cathedral of Santa María la Real, then stroll over to the old citadel before calling into the Pilgrim Welcome and Interpretation Centre. It’s a great spot to dig into the history and spirit of the Camino.
After that, lose yourself in Pamplona’s winding streets and stop for pinchos and a glass of Navarra wine. Best of all, do a slow Hemingway-style crawl through the bars and cafés he made famous in his masterpiece The Sun Also Rises. Step into the bullring, have a look at Hotel La Perla where he used to stay, and finish up at Café Iruña on Plaza del Castillo. Sit under the arches, order a drink, and take a photo with the bronze Hemingway watching over the square.
San Fermín, the famous running of the bulls, happens every year from July 6th to 14th. It’s more than wild. The whole city goes wild, everyone dressed in white, wearing red scarves, soaked in wine, with music everywhere, as kids, grannies, and tourists party all night long. It’s chaos. I’ve never been shy of a party, but I went once, years ago, and it scared me off for good. Unless you’re really up for it, my advice would be to avoid Pamplona during San Fermín. If you’re hoping to catch a bull run, you might come across one later on in one of the smaller towns, maybe in Puente la Reina or Los Arcos.
There are loads of places to stay in Pamplona. I usually stay in a hotel, so I don’t have to be in bed by the 10 pm curfew. If you’re after an albergue, Jesús y María is a popular one, right across from the cathedral. It can fill up during peak season, and if you arrive late, you might miss out on a bed. Still, they’ll often find you a spot on the floor of a local school gym. A bit of extra hardship makes you feel like a real pilgrim.
Pamplona is such a fine city, busting with energy and a highlight of the Camino.
