Section 1
Saint Jean to Roncesvalles
The first stretch of the Camino takes you up and over the Pyrenees, from the charming town of St. Jean Pied de Port to the ancient monastery at Roncesvalles. The scenery is absolutely breathtaking as you climb into the mountains, but don’t let the beauty fool you—this is one of the toughest days of the entire journey.
Right from the start, you’ll spot your first yellow arrows and officially begin your pilgrimage. Some walkers tackle the hike in one go, while others break it up with a stop at the legendary albergue in Orisson. As you make your way up, you’ll cross from France into Spain, marking the first of many milestones on this incredible journey.
St Jean
767 KM to Santiago
You’ll fall in love with the charming Basque town of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port the moment you arrive. Whitewashed walls, red timber-framed houses, and terracotta-tiled roofs create a postcard-perfect scene, all set against the stunning backdrop of the Pyrenees. The cobbled streets are alive with energy, locals chatting outside cafés, shopkeepers arranging displays of regional cheeses and cured meat and pilgrims picking up last-minute supplies. There’s a real frontier-town feel to the place
Arriving in Saint-Jean by train from Bayonne is a special journey. The train station in Bayonne connects with major routes from Paris and across Spain, or you can take a bus to the Bayonne train station from Biarritz Airport, about 30 minutes away.
The train ride itself is magical. Standing on the platform, you feel like you are about to board the Hogwarts Express from Platform 9 ¾, surrounded by a motley crew of adventurers, all strangers yet about to share the experience of a lifetime. The train takes about an hour, slowly winding into the Pyrenees, offering breathtaking views—it’s the perfect way to arrive.
If the train to Saint-Jean feels like the Hogwarts Express, then the Pilgrim’s Office is like Ollivanders Wand Shop—where your Camino journey truly begin.
Located at the top of Rue de la Citadelle, the Pilgrim’s Office is an essential stop for anyone walking the Camino de Santiago. It’s open daily from 07:30 to 20:00 (closed for lunch between 12:00 and 13:30). Here, you can: Get your first stamp on your Camino passport. Receive helpful information about the route ahead. Meet fellow pilgrims and soak in the Camino spirit. They have scales in the Pilgrims office where you can weigh your bag, I bet you it will be a few lbs lighter after a few days.
The office is run by dedicated volunteers, passionate about the Camino de Santiago and always eager to help.
Saint-Jean offers plenty of accommodation options, from albergues to small hotels. Here are two great recommendations:
Gîte Beilari, situated on the main street across from the Pilgrim’s Office, serves a communal meal, providing everyone with the opportunity to introduce themselves and share their reasons for walking the Camino.
Gîte de la Porte Saint-Jacques is another great spot to stay. They also serve a communal dinner, a treat — fresh veg from the owner’s garden, eaten outside with a lovely mountain view. In the morning, there’s a little send-off ceremony after breakfast, with some John Denver playing in the background. I thought it’d be cheesy, but it was actually kind of lovely.
One quick tip: I’m not usually a fan of booking ahead—I prefer going with the flow and seeing where the day takes me. But when it comes to St. Jean, and really the first couple of days, I’d make an exception. It gets busy, and you probably won’t be in the Camino rhythm yet. I’d just go ahead and book those first few nights as soon as you book your flights to Spain.
There are lots of restaurants in Saint-Jean, but my favourite is Restaurant Oillarburu—a quaint little spot tucked away in the old town near the church. It serves delicious, authentic traditional Basque cuisine, using fresh, locally sourced ingredients. I highly recommend the trout—it’s incredible! Fans of The Way might recognise it as the restaurant where Tom and Joost first meet. (By the way, I’m a huge fan of the film, so forgive me—I’ll probably end up pointing out all the filming locations in this guide.). One quick tip: go early or, better yet, book ahead, as this place fills up fast.
If you have time in Saint-Jean, here are a few things I’d would do.
First, head up to the Citadel. When you leave the Pilgrims’ Office, turn left and walk about 100 yards through the arch at Porte de Saint-Jacques. This is the old city gate where pilgrims coming from all over France enter Saint Jean. While the Camino Francés officially begins in St Jean, many people have already been walking for weeks, sometimes even months, across France, all converging in Saint-Jean to cross into Spain via the pass at Roncesvalles. This citadel stands on the ruins of an ancient medieval castle and was completed in the eighteenth century. You can walk all around the castle—it takes about 20 minutes and from the top, you get spectacular views of the town below, the surrounding mountains and the rugby fields, to remind you that you are still in France.
Next, walk back down the cobblestone Rue de la Citadelle past the pilgrims’ office. The street is lined with albergues, cafés, and ice cream shops and is buzzing. At the end of the street on the left is the Church of Notre-Dame de Bout du Pont. This 14th-century Gothic church is well worth a stop. Right after the church, you’ll pass through the Porte de Notre Dame, which spans the river and makes for a great photo.
Orrison
759 KM to Santiago
Leaving St. Jean Pied de Port, most pilgrims take the famous Napoleon Route, named after Napoleon’s troops, who marched this way while attempting to conquer Spain. There’s also an alternative route through the village of Valcarlos, which I haven’t taken myself; it’s said to be a bit less demanding, but still very beautiful.. If you’re walking between November 1st and March 31st, you’ll have no choice but to take the Valcarlos route, as the Napoleon Route is closed during winter due to snow.
You’ll leave St. Jean through the gate of Porte d’Espagne, saying goodbye to the medieval streets of St. Jean Pied de Port and taking your first steps on the Camino de Santiago, with the towering Pyrenees ahead. The first 8 km are a tough uphill slog, mainly on a small paved road, before you transition onto mountain trails. Along the way, you’ll pass the tiny hamlet of Honto, which has an albergue, before continuing up to Orisson. After about 8 km, you’ll round a bend and spot the Albergue Orisson, a very welcome sight after the steep ascent.
Orisson is a legendary stop on the Camino. This gîte (they call it that in France instead of an albergue) has about 40 bunk beds and a couple of private rooms. Lots of pilgrims choose to split up the tough first stage by staying here, and it’s easy to see why. The communal dinner is a highlight: everyone introduces themselves and shares why they’re walking. You’ll meet people here who might become lifelong friends—or at least familiar faces along the way.
Since it’s privately run and still in France, Orisson is a bit more expensive than your average albergue. A bed with dinner will cost around €50, or about €120 if you go for a private chalet instead of the dorm. It fills up fast—sometimes months in advance—so booking ahead is a smart move.
If it’s full or you fancy something different, there’s another highly recommended albergue called Borda just 1 km further up the hill. I haven’t stayed there myself, but everyone I’ve met who has absolutely raves about it.
Even if you’re pushing on to Roncesvalles, you’ll likely stop at Orisson for a well-earned break. The deck out front offers incredible views over the valley below, making it the perfect place to enjoy a café con leche and a croissant before continuing your climb.
Ronsavalles
743 KM to Santiago
​Fill up your water bottles before leaving Orisson and continue your climb into the Pyrenees. Along the way, you’ll encounter flocks of sheep and mountain horses grazing peacefully. Keep an eye on the sky for hawks soaring overhead and buzzards perched in the distance, who look like they are awaiting an unlucky pilgrim. A notable landmark is the famous statue of the Madonna overlooking the valley below. This spot is ideal for a rest, and there are some stone windbreakers scattered around that can provide some shelter from rain or the intense summer sun.​
As you keep going, the path gets more wooded as you drop back into the tree line. This is where you cross from France into Spain—no big sign, no passport check, just a cattle grid. After that, the trail climbs again through peaceful beech forests before opening up into expansive mountain views. You’ll reach the highest point of the day, the Col de Lepoeder, sitting at 1,450 metres (4,757 feet).
From the col, the path drops down into Roncesvalles, and you’ve got two options for the descent. The steeper route is a rough, rocky trail through the woods that the pilgrim office will probably warn you about. It’s tricky underfoot and best avoided if it’s wet. The easier option is a winding gravel track that takes a bit longer.
Whether you’ve walked from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port or started at Orisson, the monastery in Roncesvalles is a welcome sight.​
Roncesvalles is essentially a monastery with a few bars around it. Roncesvalles is famous as the site of the Battle of Roncevaux Pass in 778, where Charlemagne’s rearguard, led by his nephew Roland, was ambushed by Basque or Moorish forces, depending on who you’re talking to. This battle inspired The Song of Roland, an epic poem that holds a place in French literature similar to Beowulf in English.
The Albergue de Peregrinos, located within the monastery, has a long history of hosting pilgrims. Managed by a Dutch confraternity, it underwent modernisation about a decade ago and now offers clean, comfortable accommodations, with approximately 200 beds arranged in cubicles.
Even though it’s a big albergue with loads of beds, it can still fill up during peak times. That said, the hospitaleros are great—they’ll make sure every pilgrim has somewhere to sleep, even if it’s not a proper bed. You can book ahead online to be safe. Last time I did that and ended up with one of the much-coveted beds in the airy attic, not sure if it was because I booked or just lucked out. Otherwise, you’ll likely end up in the big bunk rooms on the lower floors with everyone else. A bed costs €15, and for €14 you can pay for a pilgrim’s dinner at one of the two bars in town, on arrival.
The two bars are Casa Sabina and  La Posada. Both bars also have accommodation.
La Posada has been around for over 400 years. If you’ve seen The Way, you might recognise the place—it’s the noisy, smelly albergue where Tom spends his first night in the movie. In real life, though, it’s actually a boutique hotel with a lively little bar and restaurant. It’s one of my favourite places anywhere to have a beer. Just order from the little hatch on the side of the building, grab a seat out front, and take it all in. You’ve earned it.
Every evening, Mass is held in the church next to the albergue, followed by a pilgrim blessing. Even if you’re not particularly religious, it’s a special experience worth attending.
