Section 1
Saint Jean to Roncesvalles
Lets get started. The first stretch of the Camino takes you up and over the Pyrenees, from the charming town of St. Jean Pied de Port to the ancient monastery at Roncesvalles. The scenery is absolutely breathtaking as you climb into the mountains, but don’t let the beauty fool you—this is one of the toughest days of the entire journey.
Right from the start, you’ll spot your first yellow arrows and officially begin your pilgrimage. Some walkers tackle the hike in one go, while others break it up with a stop at the legendary albergue in Orisson, a welcome respite before continuing on. As you make your way up, you’ll cross from France into Spain, marking the first of many milestones on this incredible journey.
St Jean
767 KM to Santiago
You’ll fall in love with the charming Basque town of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port the moment you arrive. Whitewashed walls, red timber-framed houses, and terracotta-tiled roofs create a postcard-perfect scene, all set against the stunning backdrop of the Pyrenees. The cobbled streets are alive with energy—pilgrims picking up last-minute supplies, locals chatting outside cafés, and shopkeepers arranging displays of regional cheeses and cured meats. There’s a real frontier-town feel to the place
I arrived in Saint-Jean by train from Bayonne, a truly special journey. The train station in Bayonne connects with major routes from Paris and across Spain, or you can take a bus from Biarritz Airport, about 30 minutes away.
The train ride itself is magical. Standing on the platform, I felt like I was about to board the Hogwarts Express from Platform 9 ¾, surrounded by a motley crew of adventurers, all strangers yet about to share the experience of a lifetime. The train takes about an hour, slowly winding into the Pyrenees, offering breathtaking views—it’s the perfect way to arrive.
The Pilgrim’s Office: Your First Stop
If the train to Saint-Jean feels like the Hogwarts Express, then the Pilgrim’s Office is like Ollivanders Wand Shop—where your Camino journey truly begin.
Located at the top of Rue de la Citadelle, the Pilgrim’s Office is an essential stop for anyone walking the Camino de Santiago. It’s open daily from 07:30 to 20:00 (closed for lunch between 12:00 and 13:30). Here, you can: Get your first stamp on your Camino passport. Receive helpful information about the route ahead. Meet fellow pilgrims and soak in the Camino spirit. They have scales in the Pilgrims office where you can weigh your bag, I bet you it will be a few lbs lighter after a few days.
The office is run by dedicated volunteers, passionate about the Camino de Santiago and always eager to help.
Where to stay
Saint-Jean offers plenty of accommodation options, from albergues to small hotels. Here are two great recommendations:
Gîte Beilari – Located on the main street across from the Pilgrim’s Office, this albergue offers a communal meal, giving everyone the chance to introduce themselves and share why they are walking the Camino.
Gîte de la Porte Saint-Jacques – A lovely place to stay, slightly elevated above the Pilgrim’s Office, offering a peaceful and airy atmosphere. The gîte has both a bunk room and a top-floor room with well-spaced single beds, providing a comfortable stay. I opted for the communal supper, which was a wonderful experience—fresh vegetables grown by the owner, a meal enjoyed in the garden, and a fabulous view of the mountains, where we would all be walking the next day. In the morning, there was an optional send-off ceremony after breakfast, a great way to begin your Camino.
Where to eat
There are lots of restaurants in Saint-Jean, but my favourite is Restaurant Oillarburu—a quaint little spot tucked away in the old town near the church. It serves delicious, authentic traditional Basque cuisine, using fresh, locally sourced ingredients. I highly recommend the trout—it’s incredible! Fans of The Way might recognise it as the restaurant where Tom and Joost first meet. (By the way, I’m a huge fan of the film, so forgive me—I’ll probably end up pointing out all the filming locations in this guide.). One quick tip: go early or, better yet, book ahead, as this place fills up fast.
Exploring Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port
If you have time in Saint-Jean, here are a few things I’d would do.
First, climb up to the Citadel. When you leave the Pilgrims’ Office, take a left and walk about 100 yards through the gate (Porte de Saint-Jacques), where pilgrims from the French routes arrive. This impressive fortress stands on the ruins of an ancient medieval castle and was completed in 1728. You can walk all around the castle—it takes about 20 minutes. The climb is absolutely worth it. From the top, you get spectacular views of the village below, the surrounding mountains, and even the vineyards stretching into the distance.
Next, walk back down the cobblestone Rue de la Citadelle. The street is lined with albergues, cafés, and ice cream shops and is buzzing, at then end of the street on the left the Church of Notre-Dame de Bout du Pont. This 14th-century Gothic church is well worth a stop. After the church you will cross over the river though the Porte de Notre Dame, a great spot for a photo.
Orrison
759 KM to Santiago
Leaving St. Jean Pied de Port, most pilgrims take the famous Napoleon Route, named after Napoleon’s troops, who marched this way while attempting to conquer Spain. There’s also an alternative route through the village of Valcarlos, which I haven’t taken myself, but it’s said to be beautiful and a bit less demanding. If you’re walking between November 1st and March 31st, you’ll have no choice—the Napoleon Route is closed during winter due to deep snow.
You will leave St Jean through the gate of Porte D’Espange, saying goodbye to the medieval streets of St. Jean Pied de Port, and take your first steps on the Camino de Santiago, with the towering Pyrenees ahead. The first 8 km are steep and mainly follow a small paved road before you transition onto mountain trails. Along the way, you’ll pass the tiny hamlet of Honto, which has an albergue, before continuing up to Orisson. After about 8 km, you’ll round a bend and spot the Albergue Orisson—a welcome sight after the steep ascent.
Orisson is a legendary stop on the Camino. This gîte has around 40 bunk beds and a couple of private rooms. Many pilgrims break up the difficult first stage by spending the night here, and it’s easy to see why. The communal dinners are a highlight—everyone introduces themselves and shares why they’re walking the Camino. You’ll meet people here who might become lifelong friends or at least familiar faces throughout your journey.
Since it’s privately run and still in France, Orisson is a bit pricier than most albergues. Expect to pay around €50 for a bed and dinner or about €120 if you opt for a private chalet instead of a dorm. It books up fast—sometimes months in advance—so planning ahead is crucial. If you can’t get a spot, there’s another highly recommended albergue, Borda, just 1 km further up the hill.
Even if you’re pushing on to Roncesvalles, you’ll likely stop at Orisson for a well-earned break. The deck out front offers incredible views over the valley below, making it the perfect place to enjoy a café con leche and a croissant before continuing your climb.
Ronsavalles
743 KM to Santiago
​Fill up your water bottles before leaving Orisson and continue your climb into the Pyrenees. Along the way, you’ll encounter flocks of sheep and mountain horses grazing peacefully. Keep an eye on the sky for hawks soaring overhead and buzzards perched in the distance, who look like they are awaiting an unlucky pilgrim. A notable landmark is the famous statue of the Madonna overlooking the valley below. This spot is ideal for a rest, and there are ruins of an old building that can provide some shelter from rain or the intense summer sun.​
As you continue, the path becomes more forested as you descend back into the tree line. Here, you’ll cross the border from France into Spain. Rather than a grand checkpoint, the border is marked simply by a cattle grid, without even a welcome sign.​
As you approach Roncesvalles, you’ve got two options for the final descent. The steeper route—something the pilgrim’s office will probably warn you about—is a tough, rocky trail through the woods. It’s best suited for those who are sure-footed and definitely worth avoiding if it’s wet. If you’d rather take it easy, the easier route is a winding gravel path that leads straight to the monastery.
Whether you’ve walked from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port or started at Orisson, the monastery in Roncesvalles is a welcome sight.​
Roncesvalles is essentially a monastery with two bars. The 12th-century monastery is famous as the site of the Battle of Roncevaux Pass in 778, where Charlemagne’s rearguard, led by his nephew Roland, was ambushed by Basque or Moorish forces, depending on who you’re talking to. This battle inspired The Song of Roland, an epic poem that holds a place in French literature similar to Beowulf in English.
The Albergue de Peregrinos, located within the monastery, has a long history of hosting pilgrims. Managed by a Dutch confraternity, it was modernized about a decade ago and now offers clean, comfortable accommodations, with around 200 beds arranged in cubicles.
Despite the large number of beds, the Albergue can still fill up during peak times. However, the hospitaleros are dedicated to making sure every pilgrim has a place to sleep—even if it’s not an actual bed. You can also book ahead online to secure a spot. one quick spolier, inthe morning, around 6 am, hospitals walk through the dorms ringing bells and singing to wake the pilgrims, not sure if that something for everyones taste.
A bed at the Albergue costs €15, and for €14, you can have a typical pilgrim’s dinner served at Casa Sabina. To be honest, the pilgrim meal isn’t anything special, but their main menu—featuring local game, pigeon, and trout—is much better.
The other bar, La Posada, has been open for over 400 years. If you’ve seen The Way, you might recognize the bar — it’s where Tom stayed on his first night on the Camino. It’s actually much nicer inside than it looks in the movie. There’s even a little hatch on the side where you can grab food or a beer. It’s got a lot of charm, and the food is great too. Both bars also have accommodation.
Every evening, Mass is held in the church next to the albergue, followed by a pilgrim blessing. Even if you’re not particularly religious, it’s a special experience worth attending.
