Samos to Monforte de Lemos – Connecting the Camino Francés with the Camino Invierno

The last 100 kilometres of the Camino Francés are often much maligned. After nearly 700 kilometres of walking from Saint Jean Pied de Port, the sudden influx of new pilgrims starting in Sarria can feel very overwhelming. The quiet camaraderie of the earlier stages, where familiar faces greet you at every stop, is replaced by a crowded and less intimate atmosphere.

Many people find arriving in Santiago a bit anticlimactic. I think this is partly because the transition from the quiet trail to the busy city starts days earlier in Sarria, so by the time you stand before the cathedral, you’re already completely back in the rhythm of normal life.

I know I should embrace all the new walkers. A wise pilgrim once told me, “If you feel resentful or angry about the surge of new walkers, then perhaps you’ve learned nothing on the Camino.” And they’re right. 😱. But knowing this doesn’t make it easy.

That’s why I began to look at the alternative routes into Santiago, like the Camino Invierno (the Winter Way), which offers a quieter, less-travelled path.

Historically, the Camino Invierno served as a practical winter alternative for pilgrims avoiding the snow-covered mountains of O Cebreiro. It follows a more temperate route, traditionally beginning in Ponferrada, and with a distance of about 270 kilometres, it’s usually walked as its own Camino. However, some pilgrims use it to veer off the Francés in search of tranquillity.

Branching off at Ponferrada is a popular choice, but for me, it would mean skipping some of my favourite stages. On the Frances route after leaving Ponferrada, you pass through the vineyards of the Bierzo region and arrive in Villafranca del Bierzo—a true gem of the Camino. Then comes the climb to O Cebreiro, a place steeped in Camino lore. Taking the Dragonte route (which I highly recommend) offers one of the most breathtaking and rewarding paths of the entire journey and from O Cebreiro, you descend into Triacastela and then to the magnificent monastery at Samos.

So instead of leaving the Francés at Ponferrada, I wondered if it might be possible to join the Camino Invierno after Samos. This way, I could enjoy some of my favourite days walking on the Francés while ending my journey on the quieter, final stages of the Invierno.

So, that’s what I did this October.

Samos to Monforte de Lemos:

The hike from Samos to Monforte is a mammoth trek— quite literally, as you’ll pass a giant mammoth sculpture along the way!

The bad news? It’s over 35 km, and there are absolutely no cafes or shops along the route.

The good news? After the initial climb, the path levels out and takes you through peaceful trails and quite roads with stunning scenery all the way to Monforte de Lemos.

Here’s my step-by-step guide to this journey, along with a detour you won’t want to miss.

After leaving Samos, follow the main Camino Francés route for about 1 kilometre. Keep an eye out for a small bridge crossing the Rio Sarria on the left-hand side of the road—this is where you’ll say goodbye to the Camino Francés and start your journey toward the Camino Invierno.

Cross the bridge, and you’ll immediately begin a steep ascent up a rural dirt road. It’s not too challenging a climb, and the stunning views back into the valley below are well worth the effort. The road is quiet —although not strictly a dirt track, you won’t encounter cars here.

After about 4 kilometres, you’ll come to the small village of Formigueiros. As you approach, you will see an arch under one of the houses. Avoid walking under this arch—there’s a good chance you’ll run into a pack of territorial dogs (as I did). Funny enough, when I was prepping this blog and checked Google Maps Street View to confirm the hamlet’s name, the dogs were right there, looking as menacing as ever! Anyway, instead of going under the arch, turn right just before it, this will take you around the hamlet safely. Also, it’s a good idea to carry a stick, just in case you need to show a bit of authority to ward them off.

After passing around Formigueiros, continue your ascent. The path will lead you higher, offering incredible views as you climb. Eventually, you’ll come to the quiet LU-641 road. Here, you’ll need to cross the road to continue on the trail.

But before crossing the LU-641 road, I highly recommend taking a short detour. Turn left at the crossroads and walk just a few hundred meters to find the Mammoth Statue, an unexpected and unique sight. It’s a fantastic place to take a break and enjoy a snack or lunch. Then retrace your steps to the crossroads and continue on your way.

Next, walk about 100 meters, and you’ll find a small trail on the left-hand side of the road. Follow this trail down for roughly a kilometre until it reconnects with a small road, take a right here. Continue along the road until you reach the hamlet of Goo, which is home to a little church. Pass through Goo and walk for another kilometre or so until you arrive at the Rio Mao and the reservoir it feeds into.

The walk around the reservoir is absolutely stunning, with beautiful views at every turn. Once you’ve circled the reservoir, you’ll arrive at the tiny, picturesque village of Vilasouto.

Continue through the village, and you’ll soon come to the dam wall. Cross over the dam wall, and as soon as you reach the end of the wall, take an immediate right.

Continue for approximately 1.5 kilometres until you reach the LU-644. Cross the road and proceed through the hamlet of Laiosa, then continue onward to the hamlet of Pino. The route primarily follows quiet, small roads with minimal traffic.

From Pino, continue for about 10 kilometres to Monforte de Lemos and the Camino Invierno, passing through the picturesque hamlets of Eixon, A Lama, Forneais, and Reigada.

As you approach Monforte de Lemos, feeling the weariness from your epic hike, watch for a left turn onto Rua das Cruces. About 100 yards down the street, on the left and across from the railway tracks, you’ll spot Albergue Lemavo—a truly welcome sight for any tired pilgrim.

This delightful, family-run albergue is managed by the warm and hospitable Begoña and Carlos, whose care and attention create a wonderfully homely atmosphere.

Although the albergue is about a 15-minute walk from the centre of Monforte de Lemos, it’s well worth the effort if you have a little energy left. Head into town to explore the historic Monastery of San Vicente do Pino, now a stunning Parador hotel. Perched above the town, it offers breathtaking views, rich history, and a glimpse into the architectural grandeur of the region.

Congratulations you have connected the Camino Frances with the Camino Invierno, enjoy your next 4 or 5 days walking in blissful peace to Santiago and hopefully with a little spring in your step you will arrive the same day as the friends that you left behind in Samos with a unique story to tell.