Guide to the Camino Aragonés
The Camino Aragonés begins at Somport, perched high up on the Spanish–French border in the Pyrenees. From there, it descends south about 30 km to Jaca before turning west for roughly 130 km, finishing where it joins the Camino Francés at Puente la Reina. At about 165 km, it may be the favourite of all the Camino paths I’ve walked so far. Steeped in history and surrounded by stunning scenery, the route winds along quiet single-lane tracks, offering a calm and peaceful alternative to the busier Camino routes. In this guide, I’ll walk you step by step along the journey we took in August 2025.
The Camino Aragonés is one of the great traditional routes and can be viewed as a Camino in its own right or as an alternative way to start the Camino Francés for those seeking a quieter and perhaps slightly more challenging experience. I hope you enjoy reading this guide and that it inspires your own walk. Buen Camino.
Bedous
27 KM to Somport
We began our Camino in France because we wanted the full experience of climbing up through the Pyrenees to Somport. We took a quick train ride from Pau to Bedous, a charming little village, where we had a couple of hours to soak up the atmosphere.
From there, we caught a bus for about twenty minutes to Urdos, where we would begin our ascent to Somport. Another option would have been to stay in the little stone hamlet of Borce, which we passed by on the bus on the way to Urdos. There is a little municipal albergue there, which I believe is open from May 1st to October 31st.
It is a little trickier to reach Somport than Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, but it is very doable. At the end of this guide, I have included instructions on how to reach the starting point whether you are coming from Spain or from France.
Urdos
12 KM to Somport
Urdos is a small, sleepy village at the very base of the Somport Pass. There is one small, reasonably priced hotel with a decent restaurant attached, plus a handy little shop that is well-stocked for any provisions you might need. You will also see plenty of hikers around, many of them out for day walks in the Pyrenees.
Somport
164 KM to Puente la Reina
The hike from Urdos up to Somport is simply breathtaking. From Urdos, the climb to Somport takes about five to six hours. It is approximately 12 kilometres with about 700 metres of elevation gain. The route passes through forested slopes, old military roads, and open mountain views before reaching the Somport Pass at 1,632 metres.
The walk is strenuous and demanding in places, but never too difficult. Even though you are high in the mountains, there are no steep drops, which was a real comfort for me as I can have a bit of vertigo.
Just at the end of the village of Urdos, by a cross, you veer right to pick up the trail. This section, up to Somport, is not part of the official Camino Aragonés, and while you will see a few Camino arrows, most of the time you will need to follow the red and white GR waymarkers. These signs also appear with a cross through them to warn you if you are going the wrong way.
In France, long-distance hiking routes are known as GRs, which stands for Grande Randonnée (literally great hike). These paths criss-cross the country and are famous for their red and white waymarking signs, usually painted on trees, rocks or posts. You can learn more about the GR network on the French Hiking Federation website.
The trail from Urdos to Somport is part of the GR 653a and is called the Chemin de la Mâture. It is a historic and spectacular route that climbs through the Aspe Valley to the Somport Pass. The name means “the path of the masts” chemin translates as path or way, and mâture comes from mât, the mast of a ship. In the 1700s, the French navy carved the trail directly into the cliff face to drag massive pine trunks from the high forests down to the valley to be made into masts.
Following the trail markers is fairly straightforward, but I also downloaded a map to my phone from Wikiloc, which was easy to follow. I had also loaded it onto a handheld GPS tracker, but ended up just using the phone, as I had signal all day. In the end, a map wasn’t really needed, as there were plenty of way markers, making the trail easy to follow.
One note of caution: we walked this in mid-summer, which was ideal. I imagine it would be a very different experience in winter, especially with snow covering the mountains.
Somport is a pretty special place to finish the climb. The pass sits right on the border of France and Spain, and aside from the border checkpoint, there’s really only one other building, the albergue. I really liked the albergue, isolated and resting between two countries, in the heart of the Pyrenees, with centuries of pilgrim history right outside the door.
We stayed there, and while it’s a bit more expensive than most albergues on the Camino (€50 for a bunk and a bed), the location made it well worth it.
The highlight of my first day was arriving in the baking heat and, before even checking in, ordering a beer. They pointed us to a little ice-cream freezer where you grab your own frosted mug, and then they fill it for you. After a long day on the trail, sitting out on the deck with those incredible views, that first sip was pure heaven.
Candanchú
160 km to Puente la Reina
From Somport, the trail heads downhill to Canfranc Estación. After a few kilometres, you pass the ruins of the old Hospital de Santa Cristina de Somport. Founded in the 11th century, it was once one of the three great pilgrim hospitals of Europe, alongside those in Roncesvalles and Burgos. Today, only a few stone walls and foundations remain, but it is a powerful reminder of how many pilgrims have crossed this pass over the centuries.
The first village you reach is Candanchú. In winter, it is a busy ski resort, but in summer, it feels quiet and almost sleepy. The empty chairlifts and bare ski slopes give it a completely different atmosphere. It is a good spot to pause, grab a coffee, or pick up a few supplies before carrying on. There is also an albergue here, which looks like a friendly and comfortable place to spend the night
Canfranc-Estación
156 km to Puente la Reina
From Candanchú, it is another four or five kilometres of steady descent to Canfranc Estación. The scenery along the way is incredible, with wide mountain views and forests opening up as you drop lower into the valley. We did lose the trail a couple of times, but there is really only one road down from Somport, and if you stay close to it, you will always find the markers again. Eventually, the village of Canfranc Estación comes into view.
Canfranc Estación is a bit of an odd place, with this enormous train station dominating the valley. The building looks like something you would expect to find in a great European capital rather than tucked away in the Pyrenees. It feels like the sort of place you would find Paddington Bear sitting with his suitcase on the platform, waiting for a train that never comes.
The station has a pretty unfortunate history. It opened in 1928 as an international railway hub linking France and Spain through the Somport Tunnel. At the time, it was the second largest station in Europe, with hundreds of metres of platforms, lavish halls, and a grand façade.
Things went wrong almost from the start. A fire broke out shortly after opening, the track gauges between France and Spain didn’t match, and then came the Spanish Civil War, followed by World War II, when the station was used as part of an escape route by members of the French Resistance trying to reach Portugal and then Britain. The final nail in the coffin came in 1970, when a train derailed on the French side and destroyed a bridge. France chose not to rebuild it, and the station went into decline.
It has recently been refurbished as a luxury hotel, and the sheer scale of the place will leave you stunned.
The station attracts a lot of day visitors, so the area around it is lively, with shops, tourist restaurants, and cafés making it a busy little spot compared to the quiet villages higher up. For pilgrims, there is also an albergue in the town.
Canfranc Pueblo
152 km to Puente la Reina
The walk from Canfranc Estación to Canfranc Pueblo is about 3 km. The trail follows the river for most of the way, with the sound of rushing water beside you and the steep Pyrenean slopes rising on either side. Just after leaving the station, you have about a kilometre of walking along a busier road. It is not the nicest section, but don’t worry, shortly you will veer left off the road and from then on you hardly touch tarmac again for the rest of the Camino Aragonés.
Canfranc Pueblo is the original settlement in the valley, dating back centuries before the grand station was built. It feels more authentic and traditional than Canfranc Estación, with stone houses, narrow lanes, and a peaceful atmosphere.
There is an albergue here that, from all accounts, is very special. We didn’t stay overnight as we pushed on to Jaca, but if I were to walk this route again, I definitely think we would.
Villanúa
147 km to Puente la Reina
From Canfranc Pueblo, the Camino follows the valley down towards Villanúa. It is a gentle and very scenic walk, with the river often close by and the trail weaving through forest paths, meadows, and stretches of old track. The views keep opening up as the mountains begin to roll a little wider, and the sense of being deep in the Pyrenees slowly gives way to a broader valley.
Villanúa is larger than the earlier villages and feels lively. The town sits at the foot of Collarada, one of the highest peaks in the Pyrenees, and is renowned for its caves, particularly the Cuevas de las Güixas, which can be visited on a guided tour. In winter, Villanúa is busy with skiing, but in summer it has a friendly, laid-back vibe, with plenty of cafés, shops, and places to sit outside and enjoy the atmosphere.
There is a good municipal albergue in Villanúa, set in the centre of the town.
Jaca
132 km to Puente la Reina
From Villanúa it’s about 14 km to Jaca, around 3–4 hours of walking. Just before reaching Castiello de Jaca, about 4 km after Villanúa, you’ll pass Albergue A’Noguera. It looks warm, cosy, and rustic, though we didn’t stay as we were pushing on to Jaca. Castiello itself is a small village with a few shops and cafés.
From there, the trail continues down the Aragón River valley, mixing woodland paths, open fields, and stretches of old tracks that parallel the river. You’ll pass small hamlets and chapels along the way, and as the walk goes on, the landscape gradually flattens. The mountains begin to fade into the background, and after another 5 km, Jaca comes into view.
Jaca is the largest town on the Camino Aragonés, with a population of about 15,000. It was the first capital of the Kingdom of Aragón back in the 11th century and is one of the highlights of this route. The town is full of history, from the Romanesque Catedral de San Pedro de Jaca (one of the oldest in Spain) to the pentagonal citadel, La Ciudadela de Jaca. The wide grassy moat of the citadel is famous for being home to a small herd of deer. I’m not sure if there’s any historical reason for them, a local told me they were introduced so the grass wouldn’t have to be trimmed. The old centre is lively with cafés, tapas bars, and shops. After the quiet valleys, the buzz of Jaca feels exciting.
When we arrived in August, the municipal albergue was closed, which caught us off guard. After some last-minute scrambling, we managed to get the last bed in town at a small hotel. Kind or regretted not staying in Castiello de Jaca.
Santa Cilia
117 km to Puente la Rein
Leaving Jaca, the path leads you out into the countryside, with rolling terrain, shaded woods, and a gentle rhythm. Before long, you reach Santa Cilia, a small village with a quiet, authentic feel, where life carries on much as it always has.
The village has a modest café, a little bakery where you can pick up fresh bread, and an albergue. The day we arrived, there happened to be a little market in the village, which was lovely. Just a few vans and stalls with fresh produce, some local traders, and plenty of neighbours catching up. We really enjoyed soaking up the atmosphere.
This is also a place where many pilgrims spend a night and then take a day trip to the famous Monastery of San Juan de la Peña. The monastery is wrapped in legend, central to the history of Aragón, and set dramatically beneath towering cliffs. There’s even a tradition that the Holy Grail was once hidden there in medieval times.
We didn’t have time for the detour to visit San Juan de la Peña, since our schedule was tight. If you have an extra day, though, it seems well worth it. There’s an excellent write-up on the NadineWalks website.
Puente la Reina de Jaca
111 km to Puente la Reina
After Santa Cilia, the walk continues gently along the valley towards Puente la Reina de Jaca. It is not the most exciting stretch of the Camino Aragonés, with long paths beside fields and quiet roads, but it moves you steadily closer to the heart of Aragón.
Puente la Reina de Jaca itself is not much to look at compared to its namesake on the Camino Francés, where the Aragonés eventually ends. This is more of a functional stop than a destination. There is a gas station with a shop where you can stock up on supplies, which is essential because you won’t see another shop for a few days after leaving here.
I don’t recall seeing a bank machine in the village, and in fact, you won’t pass another ATM for a while either, so it’s smart to take out cash in Jaca before heading on.
Arres
107 km to Puente la Reina
From Puente la Reina de Jaca, the Camino begins to climb again, and soon you feel the ascent up towards Arrés. The path winds steadily upwards, and although it can be demanding at times, the effort is rewarded with spectacular views back down the valley. The landscape opens wide, revealing vast views across the Aragón countryside.
Arrés itself is a tiny village, partly in ruins but slowly coming back to life thanks to pilgrims and a handful of locals. At the heart of it is the albergue, which is one of the most special I have had the chance to experience on any Camino. It is a donativo, run with warmth and generosity. Pilgrims share a communal meal served outside on long tables, which makes for an unforgettable evening. The hospitality is wonderful, and you quickly understand why so many walkers remember this stop as a highlight of their journey.
The volunteers also gave us a little tour of the village, explaining the history of Arrés and how the albergue came to be.
To top it off, at the very top of the village, we found, to our great delight, a small bar where we spent a few glorious hours in the late afternoon sunshine after the long climb. It was the perfect way to rest and soak up the atmosphere of this unique place
Artieda
90 km to Puente la Reina
From Arrés, the Camino continues across open countryside, with long stretches of quiet track and views rolling out in every direction. You hardly pass through any settlements. Artieda is the only village you will come across all day, so it feels like a real reward during your walk.
The approach to Artieda involves a steep climb up to the village, which is perched on a hill. Technically, you could bypass it on the lower road, but don’t; it is well worth the effort. The walk up is hard on the legs, but when you arrive at the top, you find a welcoming albergue.
We didn’t stay overnight, though the albergue looked very inviting. Instead, we stopped for lunch, and it was fantastic.
Artieda has a charm that makes the climb worthwhile. Sitting there, looking back over the valley, it was so relaxing we almost forgot there was another 10 km of walking in the heat waiting for us.
Ruesta
80 km to Puente la Reina
From Artieda, the Camino continues to wind through quiet hills and open countryside, following dirt tracks and farm paths with big skies overhead. The walk is remote, with few signs of modern life along the way, and by the time you see Ruesta on the horizon, it feels like you are stepping into a forgotten corner of Aragón.
Ruesta itself is a village in ruins, abandoned in the 20th century when the Yesa Reservoir forced people to leave. Today, it has been partly brought back to life by pilgrims. There is an albergue, which is built into the remains of the old castle. Staying in a place like this is a poignant reminder of the rich history that is layered into the Camino; sleeping within ancient walls that once defended the valley is an experience in itself.
There is a small restaurant run alongside the albergue. It is simple, home-cooked food. The whole place is incredibly tranquil. Once the sun goes down and the quiet sets in, you get the sense of being in another time.
You can phone or email ahead to book a bed, and it’s a good idea to do so. It was quiet when we stayed, but with nothing else for miles around, it is better to be safe than sorry.
Undués de Lerda
68 km to Puente la Reina
From Ruesta, the Camino continues along quiet trails that weave through rolling hills and scrubland. Eventually after abot 12 km, you come to Undués de Lerda, another sleepy little village forgotten by time.
The village is small, with just a handful of streets, stone houses, and a sense of calm that sinks in as soon as you arrive. There is a small albergue here too.
Sangüesa
58 km to Puente la Reina
After leaving Undués, the Camino gently descends toward Sangüesa. The route is calm and mostly along fields, farm tracks, and shaded paths. You pass the odd hamlet, but for the most part it’s a quiet stretch until Sangüesa comes into view.
Sangüesa is a slightly bigger town compared to the villages you’ve been through. It will likely be the first place in a few days where you can pick up supplies.
The albergue in Sangüesa is the Albergue de Peregrinos de Sangüesa, a simple municipal pilgrim hostel. It has 14 bunks, costs just €5 per bed, and offers basic facilities, including a kitchen, dining room, laundry, fridge, and stove. There was a phone number pinned to the door to call a local to let you in.
As you come into Sangüesa, you’ll spot the bull ring (Plaza de Toros). Every September, the town hosts the Feria Taurina “Pocha de Oro,” a bullfighting festival, so if that’s something you’re curious about, it’s worth checking the dates and timing your visit. Sangüesa is also known for its impressive churches, especially the Iglesia de Santa María la Real.
Monreal
31 km to Puente la Reina
From Sangüesa, the Camino winds through farmland and quiet tracks, passing fields, streams, and patches of woodland. It feels like a steady transition out of the Pyrenean valleys and into softer countryside. This section is not particularly difficult, but it is long enough to feel like an accomplishment when Monreal comes into view.
As you enter the village, you cross a beautiful medieval bridge. When we passed in August 2025, it was under restoration and covered in scaffolding, but even so, you could see the shape and stonework that had carried pilgrims across for centuries.
Monreal itself is a charming small village with narrow streets and a relaxed feel. There are a couple of restaurants where you can grab a meal or just sit out on a terrace and enjoy the atmosphere after a long day’s walk.
The municipal albergue is right in the centre of the village. To reach it, you climb up some pretty steep steps, which feel like one last little effort at the end of the stage. When we arrived, the door was open, and a number was left on the table to call. A local volunteer soon came by to check us in. It is a simple but welcoming place, perfectly placed to rest before the final push towards Puente la Reina, and at only €5 a night, it’s great value.
Tiebas
18 km to Puente la Reina
The walk from Monreal winds through rolling farmland and quiet paths, over gentle hills and past small villages, with the city of Pamplona shimmering in the distance to your right.
As you approach Tiebas, the ruined remains of its castle-palace come into view, set on a hill above the town. Tiebas has some fascinating history. The Castillo de Tiebas is a Gothic construction from the 13th century, built by Teobaldo I, King of Navarre. It served as a royal residence, royal archive, treasury, and even a prison. Over the centuries, it suffered burns and damage, notably in 1378 when Castile attacked it, and much of its interior and decorative splendour was lost.
The church of Santa Eufemia in Tiebas is also worth a look; it’s Gothic and contains elements that reflect the castle’s importance.
When we arrived in Tiebas, the town was in the midst of its annual medieval reenactment festival. It had a real carnival feel, with locals dressed in medieval costumes, jesters playing old-time music, knights engaging in mock battles, jugglers, circus acts, and a parade from the village up to the castle, where a grand medieval banquet was held.
It’s a two-day event held on a Friday and Saturday at the end of August, so if you’re planning to walk around that time of year, it’s worth checking the dates to see if you can incorporate it into your trip. We’d have loved to stay and soak it up, but we had to keep moving on towards Puente la Reina.
There is also an albergue in Tiebas.
Eunate (Ermita)
5 km to Puente la Reina
From Tiebas, the Camino carries you through rolling farmland and a series of small villages, including Campanas, Olcoz, and finally Eneriz. The walking here is gentle and open, with long tracks across fields that in summer are filled with sunflowers. It is a beautiful and almost meditative stretch.
Just after leaving Eneriz, the trail leads you through more farmland until suddenly, almost out of nowhere, the church of Eunate reveals itself. One moment, fields surround you, the next, you are standing before one of the most unique and mysterious monuments on the Camino.
The church of Santa María de Eunate was built in the 12th century in the Romanesque style, with its striking octagonal design and a ring of arches that surrounds it. The name “Eunate” means “a hundred doors” in Basque, a reference to those arches. Its origins are uncertain. Some believe it was connected to the Knights Templar, others that it served as a funerary chapel for pilgrims who died on the road, or simply as a hermitage. Whatever its true story, the setting and the design make it unforgettable.
Arriving at Eunate feels like stepping into a scene that has barely changed for centuries, the sudden reveal of the church in the middle of the sunflower fields creating a moment of pure Camino magic.
Obanos
3 km to Puente la Reina
From Eunate, the Camino continues on quiet tracks and farm roads, gradually leading you towards Obanos. The walking here is easy and open, with rolling farmland and views that stretch across the valley. After the long day, it can feel like the kilometres go slowly, but then the rooftops of Obanos appear and you know you are close.
Obanos is a pretty little town with a strong pilgrimage history. Stone houses frame its central square, and the church of San Juan Bautista stands at its heart. The church has a striking Gothic façade and is closely tied to Camino legends, making it worth stepping inside if it is open.
When we arrived, late in the afternoon and completely exhausted, we dropped our packs and stopped for a beer in the square. Sitting there in the fading sun with the church bells ringing nearby was the perfect way to rest and take in the atmosphere of the village.
Puente La Reina
0 km to Puente la Reina
From Obanos it is only a few kilometres to Puente la Reina, but after a long day’s walk it can feel like forever. The stage is around 30 km if you started back in Monreal, and by the time we arrived, we were absolutely exhausted. Still, the approach into Puente la Reina is special. If you are walking just the Camino Aragonés, this is a fitting and memorable place to finish. And if you are continuing on to the Camino Francés, this is the point where the two routes meet. It is a milestone moment, suddenly you encounter the first pilgrims arriving from Saint Jean Pied de Port. They are just starting out, full of energy and excitement, but you already feel like a seasoned pilgrim with days of hard mountain walking behind you.
Puente la Reina, which means “Bridge of the Queen,” is one of the classic Camino towns. The famous medieval bridge over the Arga River is its centrepiece, a graceful stone structure that has carried pilgrims for centuries. Puente la Reina is one of those classic Camino towns, characterised by its narrow streets, several historic churches, numerous restaurants, and a vibrant, welcoming atmosphere. After days in the quiet valleys of the Aragonés, arriving here feels almost like stepping into another world.
We were also lucky enough to catch a magical live jazz performance under the bridge. It’s part of their jazz festival, with shows every Saturday night through August. Definitely another one to keep in mind when planning your walk,
There are many places to stay in Puente la Reina. Two that stand out for me are the municipal albergue, which you find just on the left as you first enter the town, and the Albergue de Peregrinos Santiago Apóstol. The latter is at the far end of town, you cross the bridge for which the town is named, then cross the road and climb a hill that seems to go on forever when you are already tired. But it is worth the effort. The albergue has a swimming pool, and after our 30-plus kilometre day, we checked in and went straight to the water. After six hard days of hiking, diving into that pool was pure relief and the perfect way to celebrate the end of the Camino Aragonés.
How to Reach the Start of the Camino Aragonés
Getting to the start of the Camino Aragonés in Somport is a little trickier than starting in Saint Jean Pied de Port, but it’s still very doable. You can approach from either the French or the Spanish side, and with a bit of planning, it all works smoothly.
If you’re coming from France, the easiest route is by train from Pau to Bedous, which takes just over an hour and costs around €15. Trains run about five times a day, and you can check times on sncf-connect.com. From Bedous, you pick up the 550 bus, which loops around the mountains serving villages on both the French and Spanish sides. It stops at Urdos, Somport itself, and continues to Canfranc Estación, so you can choose where you want to begin. Pau is a decent-sized station with good connections to Paris and other French cities. Another option is to fly into Lourdes airport, take a short bus into Lourdes, and then connect by train to Pau. Ryanair serves Lourdes with flights from Dublin, London, Milan, Rome, Brussels and several other cities.
From Spain, the options are even easier. The main hub is Zaragoza, one of Spain’s larger cities, with excellent train, bus, and flight connections across the country and internationally. From Zaragoza, you can take either a bus or a train to Jaca — the trip takes about three hours, and there are a few departures each day. From Jaca, it’s a 30-minute bus ride to Canfranc Estación, where you can then connect with the same 550 bus to Somport or Urdos on the French side. Another possibility is to come via Pamplona, where there is an afternoon bus to Jaca with onward connections.
For comparing options and finding the best schedules, I find rome2rio.com really handy.
Wow Gerard! What a fantastic travelogue.
Your writing really brings the countryside to life. Thank you🌿
Thanks very much Mary
Buen Camino.
Thank you, Gerard!
Your guide is beautifully set out.
It’s so informative and gives so much so economically – no wasted words but just what we’d want to know. And some great photographs!
Buen Camino
Great photos!
How did you get to the start of this route, if you don’t mind me asking? I’m guessing it’s not a direct route
Thanks Dan, getting to the start of the route was actually easier than I expected. The official Aragonés route begins at Somport, located at the Spanish-French border at the summit of the mountain. However, we started in France and hiked up to Somport on the first day, as we wanted the experience of climbing up.
There’s a bus, the 550, that loops around the mountain, passing through all the villages on both the French and Spanish side, stopping everywhere along the way. If you’re coming from France, you can get a train from Pau, which connects with most major stations in France, to the small village of Bedous and then pick up the bus there to any of the starting points. If you’re coming from Spain, you can take a train from Zaragoza to Canfranc Estación and catch the same bus to Somport or any of the villages to start from.
I’d definitely recommend, whether you’re coming from France or Spain, to begin in one of the French villages and hike up to Somport. The views are spectacular.
Beautiful. I’m on the camino Catalan right at the town (Tarrega) where you decide left via Zaragoza or right up into the Pyrenees to meet the Aragon at Sainta Cilia. Your photos are my second sign today that this should be my path. Thanks for that gift.
Good stuff. It was my first time walking the Aragonés and I loved it. The section from Santa Cilia is fantastic, mostly single file tracks all the way to Puente la Reina and so quiet. There are no towns until Sangüesa so make sure to pick up cash or supplies before Santa Cilia. About 12 km after Santa Cilia you will come to the donativo in Arres, set in an abandoned village, and it is incredible. The next day brings you to La Ruesta with another amazing albergue in the ruins there. Buen Camino