The Dragonte Route
The most Epic day on the Camino
Every year nearly 500,000 people walk the Camino, but less than 100 take on the challenge of the Dragonte Route. The Dragonte route is for the truly adventurous. I hiked the Dragonte route earlier this year, and it was hands down the most amazing day of hiking on the Camino. It felt like a proper hike: I got lost, had to ford a stream, and actually got to use my map and compass to figure out where I was going. I didn’t see a single soul all day—never mind another pilgrim.
After nine gruelling hours, I finally reached Las HerrerÃas and decided to call it a day there— I was completely exhausted but brimming with pride (and a bit of relief!) for having made it. The route is tough, but if you’re up for a challenge, it’s absolutely worth it.
From Villafranca del Bierzo most pilgrims walk to either Las HerrerÃas or all the way to O Cebreiro, with three routes to choose from:
1. The Primary Route:
Firstly there is the standard path which about 95% of pilgrims take. It follows the valley floor along the old national road, with the modern highway towering above. While the trail is separated from the road by a small barrier wall, it still feels a bit busy. After about 10 km, you’ll reach the small town of Trabadelo, home to the wonderful Casa Susi, and then it’s another 10 km of mostly road walking to Las HerrerÃas, before the final ascent to O Cebriero.
2. The Pradela Alternative:
Next, if you want something quieter and more scenic, take the Pradela route. As you leave Villafranca, you’ll cross the River Burbia. Just after the bridge, take an immediate right turn. The trail isn’t well signposted, so keep an eye out to avoid missing it. This path adds about 1.5 km to your day and includes a 400-meter climb and descent, but the views are absolutely worth it. The route avoids the worst of the road walking and rejoins the main path in Trabadelo. I can’t understand why fewer than 5% of people choose this route—it’s absolutely stunning and incredibly peaceful. Honestly, the yellow arrows should just guide everyone this way!
3. The Dragonte Route:
And then there is the Dragonte route, a 26+ km beast of a trek —it took me about 9 hours to complete and features three significant climbs. There are absolutely no services along the way, just a few fountains so pack some food and water the night before.
For American readers, this trek might evoke the remote backwoods of Appalachia—think secluded trails and hollers. The path isn’t especially well-marked, which can feel refreshing after endlessly following yellow arrows. However, you will find occasional white signs marking the way, I think these were put up by local hikers and don’t go into the woods. Also, I heard that some fellow pilgrims have tied yellow ribbons to trees since I walked, so keep an eye out for these. Mobile coverage is spotty, so if you’re using Google Maps, remember to download the map in advance and rely on your phone’s GPS signal instead.
The easiest way to stay on track is with the Trail Smart app from Trekopedia, available for iPhone and Android with GPS tracks for the route. Trekopedia also offers a highly detailed PDF guide—download it here.
Also, the fabulous Friends of the Dragonte Facebook group is an active and helpful resource—check it out here.
A word of caution: This route isn’t to be taken lightly. I hiked it solo this May, and the undisturbed undergrowth suggested that no one had been through for several days. It’s easy to get lost, so tackling it alone probably wasn’t the smartest move.
Here’s the route I took for the Dragonte option. It’s not easy, but it is incredible.
Villafranca del Bierzo
Start
Leave Villafranca by crossing the old medieval bridge with its wrought iron railings. After the bridge, the road veers left—follow it for a few hundred yards, passing a stone convent on your left. When you reach the corner with Hostal Restaurante Méndez El Guardia, take a sharp left across another bridge. While you are taking the left most pilgrims will keep going straight, so time to say goodbye, hopefully just for the day.
Cross the bridge, then walk up a slightly hilly street through the houses on the edge of Villafranca. Keep going until you reach a small roundabout with a tunnel as the last exit. Walk straight through the roundabout, continuing uphill on the road signposted for Corullón.
Walk up the hill for about 500m and then take the first turn off to the right onto a narrow paved road signposted for the village of Dragonte. This road is very quiet, no cars passed me, the day I walked on it. I just met one road biker out for a spin, who spent an eternity trying to convince me that I had made a mistake and was going in the wrong direction.
The ascent is very steep, but there are amazing views to your left, of the valley below and very rustic-looking vineyards on your right as you climb towards Dragonte.
Be careful too as the winding road lacks shoulders.
Dragonte
6.7 km / 4.2 mi
After 5.9 km (3.7 mi), you’ll reach a Y-junction with a slightly confusing sign that seems to point to Dragonte in both directions. Stick to the right and continue uphill.
You will also pass a sign for a giant swing overlooking the valley, it looked like fun but I decided to skip this detour, kind of kicking myself afterwards that I did.
Continue for another 1 km, you’ll arrive in Dragonte, the namesake of this route. There’s no shop or café here, but at the end of the village on your right, you will find the “Area De Descanso” in an old building.
When I passed through, there wasn’t a soul around, but it felt like the kind of place used by local hunters or walkers. The door was unlocked, and inside, there was a cozy fire going, fresh coffee brewing, and even a fridge stocked with beer —one of those unexpected Camino moments. You’ll also find a stamp and a guest book, so be sure to add your name to the list of intrepid hikers here!
Moral de Valcarce
10.1 km / 6.3 mi
Continue through the village. climbing further before circling a quarry on your left, I stopped here for breakfast, while soaking in the magnificent views.
Just across from the quarry, on the right-hand side of the road, you will pick up a rough path, take this and continue climbing through scrub. You soon reach the first peak at about 1,060 meters (3,805 feet). After the high point, start descending through woodland and merge onto a paved road heading southwest with great views.
You could also skip the high point and stay on the paved road that you have walked from Dragonte, as it will eventually reconnect with the path, just before the village of Moral De Valcarce where you’ll find a water fountain.
Villar de Corrales
13 .0 km / 8.1 mi
This next stretch can get very confusing. You will make your way down the first mountain before climbing up the second toward the village of Villar de Corales.
About 700 meters past Moral de Vallcare, you’ll hit a small Y-junction—stick to the left along a cow path. After just 200 meters, take a sharp right off the path into a chestnut forest. The trail dips down towards a stream, marking the low point between the two mountain peaks. The forest is thick here and I got turned around for nearly an hour, and had to do a lot of bushwhacking to find my way
I was expecting to find a path, but eventually went back to my notes from Trekopedia and realised that you need to walk in the shallow stream (ankle-deep under normal conditions). I walked in the stream for about 100 meters, until I came to an old building, that Treopedia suggested, with a sign for Santiago. I took a left here and started the climb back up to Villar de Corales.
Villar de Corales felt pretty abandoned—just a few dogs hanging around, and they didn’t seem too happy about me passing through. There’s an old church in the village, and I couldn’t resist climbing over the wall to check it out. The bell ropes were hanging low, so I gave them a good tug. The bells rang out so loud across the valley it gave me a proper scare—definitely louder than I expected, probably echoing for miles. If I ever get into trouble, at least I know how to send a distress signal!
San Fiz do Seo
17.8 km / 11.1 mi
Continue through the village, you will soon reach the top of the second peak of the day, which is about 1,046 m / 3,432 ft, it is beautifully rugged and barren here. You then descend into the second valley along a steep winding rocky path.
At the 15 km (9.3 mi) mark, a few trails come together. Stay left and keep descending, winding your way around a quarry. Eventually, you’ll hit a proper road—still quiet with no cars when I passed, but it feels like the kind of place where someone could come speeding around the bend, so stay alert.
Take a right here, then the next left, which will lead you uphill into the village of San Fiz do Seo. Also if you need to reconnect with the main Camino, you can follow the LE-5110 back down into the valley for about 4.2 km (2.8 mi) to Trabadelo.
Villasinde
21.8 km / 13.6 mi
After San Fiz do Seo you will make your final mountain ascent. There is another short stream walk just before the third mountain
After 21.8 km /13.6 mi you will reach the village of Villasinde, the final village on the Dragonte route.
Las Herrerias
26.4 km / 16.4 mi
Continue through the village and continue over the last high point of the day. Finally descend down to Las HerrerÃas through a forest and along an old cow path, where the Dragonte route joins the main Camino.
Las Herrias is a charming little village, by the river with a few albergues. I would recommend Albergue Las HerrerÃas or Albergue Casa Lixa.
You can also arrange from here to have a horse to carry you up OCebriero the next day, which you might need after your epic walk.
Thanks, this is really handy.