Section 4
Logroño to Burgos
This next stretch of the Camino takes you from Logroño to Burgos, about 120 kilometres over four or five days. You’ll pass through quiet, charming villages and stroll through sun-drenched vineyards (maybe even sneak a grape or two) as you cross from Rioja into Castilla y León. You might end up sleeping in an old monastery or on a mat in a church loft. It all wraps up with the jaw-dropping Gothic cathedral in Burgos, easily one of the finest in Europe.
Logroño
605.5 KM to Santiago
Leaving Logroño, it’s about 10 km to Navarrete, with no shops along the way, so stock up before you go. It doesn’t take long to leave the busy city streets behind and cross a bridge into a peaceful park. Follow the path through the park and you’ll reach a small lake and nature reserve. You’ll likely spot birdwatchers with cameras, ducks on the water, and plenty of rabbits and squirrels.
Eventually, the nature reserve ends, and you’re back on scrubby paths with busy roads nearby. There’s a bit of uphill walking towards the end, and although it’s not the most pleasant stretch, crossing several bridges over traffic, Navarrete finally comes into view. It sits on a hill surrounded by vineyards, and if you squint your eyes and block out the trucks, it almost looks quite pretty.
Navarrete
593 KM to Santiago
As you walk up the small hill into Navarrete, you’ll pass the remains of the 12th-century San Juan de Acre, once a pilgrim hospital. There’s not much left, just the foundations, but you can imagine what it might have looked like. I kind of skipped it. Anywhere else in the world, this would be so impressive, but when on the Camino, you pass 12th-century buildings still in use every day, an architectural dig of one doesn’t quite impress in the same way.
At the top of the hill, Navarrete greets you with narrow streets, warm stone buildings, and a relaxed feel. At the centre of town is the Church of the Assumption, which is well worth a visit.
If you’re staying the night, consider walking up to the Tedeón, where the old castle once stood. There’s a small picnic area and great views of the surrounding countryside.
You’ll also find lots of little cafés tucked away in the side streets. My favourite is Restaurante La Iglesia, just to the right of the church. It’s a great place to sit outside, relax, and people-watch. They also have a cosy albergue upstairs. Another great place to stay is Albergue La Casa de Ángel, a peaceful, friendly spot that offers a vegan communal dinner.
I really liked this town. It’s not too busy, as it sits between two main stopping points, Logroño and Nájera, so there’s usually no shortage of beds. If you’re walking 20–25 km days and aren’t tempted by the bar-hopping and pinchos in Logroño, I’d definitely bookmark Navarrete as a great place to end a day.
Ventosa
587 KM to Santiago
The next stretch is pleasant enough, mostly tracks through vineyards, though at times you’re right beside a busy road.
Keep an eye out for a small detour to the village of Ventosa on the left. It only adds about 2 km to your day, and it’s absolutely worth it. Firstly, it gets you away from the traffic. But more than that, the locals have created a little art trail they call “El kilómetro de arte” with installations along the way, really charming stuff. It’s worth slowing down and taking it all in.
Ventosa itself is a lovely village with a popular albergue, a couple of cafés, and a fine church with amazing views if you’re up for a short climb.
Najera
577.0 KM to Santiago
The walk from Ventosa to Nájera is about 11 km and pretty relaxed, mostly dirt tracks through farmland and vineyards, with a few gentle climbs but nothing major.
As you get closer, the red cliffs start to rise up ahead and guide you in. The first bit coming into town is a little industrial, not the prettiest, but it gets much nicer as you reach the centre. The cliffs tower behind the town, and the old buildings along the river give it a lovely feel.
Nájera has a great buzz without feeling too crowded. The Albergue de Peregrinos Nájera is the main municipal albergue, often busy but reliable. I also really liked Albergue Puerta de Nájera. It’s full of character, nicely decorated, and one of those places you’ll want to book ahead; it’s usually packed.
The Monastery of Santa María la Real sits right beneath the red cliffs at the edge of Nájera and is one of the big historical draws in Navarre. It was founded in the 11th century on the site of a cave where a king is said to have found a statue of the Virgin Mary. The monastery’s thick walls and buttresses give it a fortress-like feel. Inside, you’ll find royal tombs, a peaceful cloister, and the original cave chapel. Well worth a stop.
Also, if you’ve got some time in Nájera, maybe you’re staying the night and arrive early, or you’re taking a rest day, I’d recommend heading to the monastery of San Millán de la Cogolla, about 15 km away. It actually has two monasteries: Suso, the older one built into the rock, and Yuso, which is bigger and more ornate. Together, they’re considered the birthplace of written Spanish and Basque, and the whole site is UNESCO-listed. You can grab a taxi from Nájera, or take the local bus, it runs three times a day, costs about €2 each way and takes about 30 minutes from the bus station in the middle of town. Check jimenezmovilidad.es for the schedule.
Azofra
571.5 KM to Santiago
The walk from Nájera to Azofra is about 6 km and pretty straightforward. You leave Nájera by crossing the river and climbing gently out of the valley. Azofra is a small village with just one main street running through it. It’s got a couple of cafés, a shop, and a good albergue. The Municipal Albergue in Azofra is known for having twin rooms instead of bunk beds, which feels like a bit of a luxury at this stage of the Camino. There’s also a little foot-soaking fountain out back, perfect for a warm afternoon.
Cirueña
562.2 KM to Santiago
The walk from Azofra to Cirueña is approximately 9 km and a bit of an odd one. You start off with more farmland and quiet tracks, then out of nowhere, you pass right through by a golf course. If you fancy a round, go for it, but I always think of that quote, “Golf is a good walk spoiled”, when passing.
Right after that, you arrive in what feels like a ghost town, with wide streets and modern houses but barely a soul around. It was one of those developments that emerged just before the 2008 crash, and for years, it sat empty. Only recently have people started moving in, but it still has that weird half-finished vibe.
Eventually, you reach Cirueña, a sleepy little village where not much happens. There’s an albergue, a café (if it’s open), and not much else, but it does the job if you’re stopping for the night.
Santo Domingo de la Canada
556.5 KM to Santiago
The walk from Cirueña to Santo Domingo de la Calzada is just under 6 km and easy enough. It’s mostly downhill or flat, through open fields, and you’ll start seeing signs for Santo Domingo well before you get there.
Santo Domingo is another one of those classic Camino towns, packed with history and Camino spirit. The big highlight is the cathedral, and it’s definitely worth stepping inside. What makes it famous is the live roosters and hens that live in a little coop right there in the church. They’re part of one of the Camino’s best-known legends: a young pilgrim was falsely accused of theft and hanged, but when his parents pleaded with the local judge, he scoffed and said their son was as dead as the roasted chicken on his plate. Right then, the chicken stood up, flapped its wings, and crowed. Miraculously, the boy was still alive. Ever since, chickens have had a home in the cathedral as a reminder of the story and pilgrims still stop to smile at them on their way through town.
There are a couple of good albergues here. The Albergue de Peregrinos Cofradía del Santo is run by one of the oldest brotherhoods on the Camino. It’s right in the centre big, lively, and full of Camino energy. If you’re after something a bit quieter, Albergue Abadía Cisterciense is a peaceful spot run by Cistercian nuns. It’s simple, clean, and very welcoming.
The town itself has everything you need, bars, restaurants, shops and a nice buzz, especially in the evening when pilgrims gather around the square. A good place to rest up and soak in the Camino vibes.
Grañón
549.5 KM to Santiago
Leaving Santo Domingo, you cross the River Oja on a bridge linked to Saint Dominic. From there, the path runs alongside the N-120, passing through open fields and farmland. It’s a flat, easy 7 km walk to Grañón, a quiet, rural, and peaceful destination.
Grañón is perched on a small hill. For me, it’s one of the most special villages on the Camino. It’s a quiet, sleepy little place, and right at the top of the hill, there’s a lovely rest area with a cool little food truck. You can grab a coffee, a smoothie, or even a cocktail if the mood strikes.
As you walk into the village, there’s a bar on the right, and up in the main square, there’s another one that feels more like a local social club, tucked upstairs, full of farmers swapping stories and local gossip.
What really makes Grañón unforgettable is the Albergue Parroquial San Juan Bautista, which is part of the church. You might miss it if you don’t know it’s there—the entrance is around the back. But once you’re inside, it’s something special. You head up an old spiral stone staircase, it feels like stepping into a castle, and suddenly you’re in this warm, welcoming space
You’re greeted with a cup of tea or soup on the stove, and then given a mat to sleep wherever you like, either in the cozy basement or up in the loft above the kitchen.
Dinner is communal, simple, and full of heart. Everyone helps out, the wine flows, and if the weather’s good, you eat in the little garden out back, pure magic.
Later, there’s a candlelit reflection up in the church’s choir loft. It’s peaceful and moving, with everyone invited to share their thoughts and challenges. Honestly, it’s one of those Camino moments you carry with you long after the walk is done.
Redecilla del Camino
545.5 M to Santiago
You now leave La Rioja behind and enter the province of Castilla y León. The first village you hit is Redecilla del Camino, a small, peaceful spot that’s been welcoming pilgrims for centuries.
The municipal albergue is named after San Lázaro, who is said to have cared for pilgrims here as far back as the 13th century.
Belorado
533.7 KM to Santiago
The walk into Belorado is pleasant, you pass Albergue A Santiago on your right, which has a swimming pool, as you arrive in town.
Continue downhill. Belorado is not the most picturesque town on the Camino, with some crumbling buildings sitting below the remains of an old castle. But it makes up for that with large colourful murals, which are painted all over town.
At the heart of Belorado is the Plaza Mayor, a big, slightly sleepy square with a few cafés and restaurants. Just off the square is Albergue Cuatro Cantones, one of my favourite places to stay on the Camino, and the main reason I’d recommend stopping is in Belorado. It’s got a lovely little garden and a small pool with a canopy over it. It’s not big enough to swim in, but it’s perfect for a quick dip after a hot day. It’s surrounded by grass, just enough space to stretch out and relax. A perfect spot to idle away a lazy afternoon.
They also have a great restaurant that does group sittings for all the guests, and it feels like half the town shows up. If there were a prize for best-run albergue on the Camino, these guys would surely win.
If you have time, pop into the quirky Museo de Radiocomunicación Inocencio Bocanegra, which has a fascinating collection of vintage radios and old communication gear.
The town also has a few churches worth seeing, including Iglesia de Santa María, Iglesia de San Pedro, and the Monasterio de Santa Clara, also known as Nuestra Señora de Bretonera.
Belorado might not be the prettiest town on the Camino, but I always get the feeling the locals are really trying, and that’s one of the reasons I like it so much.
Tosantos
529.0 KM to Santiago
Continue on for another 3 km and you’ll reach Tosantos, a tiny village you could almost miss on a bend in the road. But don’t. Tosantos is home to one of my favourite albergues on the entire Camino.
It’s run by Camino veteran José Luis, who is passionate about keeping the original spirit of the Camino alive. Like Grañón, there are no beds, just mats on the floor in a simple, old building. Before dinner, we were given a fascinating tour of the Ermita de la Peña, a small church built into the cliffs overlooking the village.
Afterwards, everyone helped prepare the communal evening meal. It was simple, with no wine, but full of warmth, shared effort, and good conversation. After dinner, we gathered for a quiet reflection, a kind of prayer circle. We each wrote a message on a card, sharing why we were walking the Camino or something personal we were carrying. Then we drew cards written by past pilgrims, complete strangers.
Reading those words aloud was incredibly moving. There were tears, laughter, and a strong feeling of connection among everyone there. This is one of those special places on the Camino you’ll never forget, a real gem worth seeking out.
Espinosa del Camino
522.0 KM to Santiago
Espinosa del Camino is a tiny, peaceful village with just a handful of houses and about 40 residents.
There’s a small 16th-century church and the ruins of an old monastery nearby, but not much else, no cafés or shops. Still, it’s a nice little pause before heading into the hills.
Villafranca Montes de Oca
522.0 KM to Santiago
Villafranca Montes de Oca is a small, sleepy village nestled in the hills, featuring a couple of albergues and a church.
The next 10km from Villafranca Montes de Oca to the Monastery of San Juan are absolutely lovely. You’ll be walking on a forest path the whole way, surrounded by pine trees. There’s a good steep climb at the start, but it soon levels out, with a few gentle ups and downs along the way.
At the top of the climb out of Villafranca Montes de Oca, you’ll come across the Civil War memorial at Alto de la Pedraja. It marks one of the biggest mass graves from the early days of the Spanish Civil War, where around 300 people were executed here in the summer of 1936 by Francoist forces. Most were Republicans: teachers, union members, and local activists.
The site was left untouched for decades. It wasn’t until 2006, after years of pressure from families and historical memory groups, that excavations began, and over 100 bodies were recovered. It’s a quiet, sobering spot in the woods, and a good place to pause, catch your breath, and reflect.
Eventually, you’ll come to a clearing where the monastery appears, quiet and isolated. It’s a really peaceful stretch, I’ve walked it in the late afternoon and not seen another soul.
San Juan de Ortega
510 KM to Santiago
The Monastery of San Juan de Ortega has been offering shelter to pilgrims for nearly 900 years. It was founded in the 12th century by San Juan de Ortega, a devoted follower of Santo Domingo de la Calzada.
There’s an albergue right inside the old monastery itself, two simple rooms lined with bunk beds. It’s a bit austere and can feel cold, especially in early spring or late autumn, but it has that old-school Camino charm: no frills, just a roof, a bed, and a sense of history all around you. You’ll check in at the small café in front of the albergue, which also serves coffee and snacks. Just next door, there’s another little café where you can get a warm, hearty dinner.
If you’re looking for a bit more comfort, there are two other lovely albergues nearby. One is recently opened and sits right beside the monastery, while the other is just at the entrance to the hamlet as you walk in. Both are more modern and cosy, but wherever you stay, the quiet, remote atmosphere of San Juan de Ortega makes it a very special stop on the Camino.
From the monastery, it’s about 27 km to Burgos, and to be honest, it’s not the most exciting stretch of the Camino. The scenery flattens out, the road gets a bit repetitive, and the approach into the city can feel long and urban. There’s no bus from San Juan de Ortega to Burgos, but taxis do tend to show up in front of the monastery in the morning, almost like they know some pilgrims might be tempted.
If you’re ever going to skip a section of the Camino, this might just be the place. No shame in it, everyone walks their own way.
Ages
506. KM to Santiago
Continue to Agés, a lovely little village and a great place to stop before the long walk into Burgos. There’s a small church tucked away at the back, a couple of friendly albergues, and a cracking little restaurant called El Alquimista that serves proper local food, definitely try the gazpacho.
Between the good meal and the chance to break up the stage into Burgos, it’s well worth staying the night here.
Atapuerca
503.5 KM to Santiago
Just 2km past Agés, you’ll come to Atapuerca, a small, quiet village that makes for another good stop before heading into Burgos. It’s best known for the nearby Sierra de Atapuerca archaeological site, where some of the oldest human remains in Europe were discovered. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and seriously fascinating stuff.
You’ll walk right past the entrance on your way out, but you can’t just stroll in; you’ll need to book a tour from Burgos. If you’ve got the time, it’s well worth doing.
The village itself is relaxed and friendly, with a few albergues and rural guesthouses.
Burgos
483.8 KM to Santiago
The walk from Atapuerca to Burgos is about 17 km and, honestly, it can be a bit of a slog. The main route takes you through roughly 10 km of an industrial zone, not exactly the highlight of the Camino.
There is an “alternative” scenic route, but to be fair, it’s only slightly better. It loops around the back of the airport and avoids some of the worst of the industrial sprawl, but you’re still walking dusty tracks and passing through a couple of forgettable villages.
To take the alternative route, after leaving Orbaneja, cross the bridge over the highway and turn immediately left off the main path. This takes you around the airport and eventually into Burgos through a city park.
Either way, it’s not the prettiest stage, but if you stick it out, the reward is real. Seeing the spires of Burgos Cathedral rise in the distance is a special moment. A long day, but one that ends well.
Burgos is a proper city and a big milestone on the Camino Francés. It’s where many pilgrims take a rest day, and for good reason. The city has everything you might need: shops, banks, laundromats, places to eat, and plenty of places to stay. It’s also packed with history and has a relaxed, walkable old town.
The star attraction is the Burgos Cathedral, a stunning Gothic masterpiece and one of the most impressive on the entire Camino. Even if you’re not big into churches, this one is worth a visit. It’s massive, full of art and history, and the tomb of El Cid is inside. You can buy a ticket or just admire it from the outside, the spires alone are breathtaking.
Nearby, you’ll find the Arco de Santa María, a grand medieval gate that leads into the historic centre. There are loads of little squares, bars, and cafés—perfect for a bit of people-watching or treating yourself to a proper meal (Burgos is known for its morcilla, a local blood sausage).
If you fancy a bit more walking (without your pack), head up to Castillo de Burgos. It’s a steep climb, but it offers great views over the city.
For pilgrims, the Albergue Municipal de Peregrinos is right in the heart of the city, just a few minutes from the cathedral. It’s enormous, with over 150 beds, and is well-run, but it can fill up quickly in peak season. Facilities are solid, and it’s a great place to meet other pilgrims. If you prefer something quieter or more private, there are also plenty of hostels and hotels available.
