Section 6
Carrión de los Condes to León
From Carrión de los Condes to León, it’s about 95 kilometres of more Meseta walking. You’ll pass the halfway point of the Camino Francés just before the historic town of Sahagún. There’s also a brilliant day’s walk along an old, isolated Roman road if you’re up for the challenge.
Carrión de los Condes
400.1 KM to Santiago
The walk from Carrión de los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza is approximately 17 km and features the dreaded longest stretch of the Camino, where you pass through no villages. It’s very flat and straight, mainly following a gravel track through old farmland. There is no shade, so bring water and snacks. It’s a good idea to start early, especially in summer when the heat can be tough. In busier times of the year, some local entrepreneurs set up a way station — a food truck-style stop halfway along — where everyone inevitably gathers for a much-needed break.
Calzadilla de la Cueza
381.1 KM to Santiago
After the long empty stretch, Calzadilla de la Cueza appears — a dusty little town where a tumbleweed rolling down the main street wouldn’t look out of place, like something out of Texas.
You’ll almost certainly stop here for a cold beer or a Coke. If you’re not pushing on, there are a few good albergues. I liked Camino Real — the first one you see as you enter town. There’s something about these little villages and their splendid isolation that I have a real grá for.
Ledigos
376.9 KM to Santiago
The next stretch to Ledigos is about 6 km. There are a few detours if you have the energy. A large stone outside Calzadilla shows the options. The alternative routes are more remote, heading into the hills and away from the road, before rejoining near Ledigos. The path that keeps farthest to the left bypasses both Ledigos and Terradillos and runs straight to Moratinos. For once, the alternative is the faster way.
Ledigos is a small village with only about 60 inhabitants. It’s worth stopping to see the 17th-century Iglesia de Santiago, a brick church that sits on a hill overlooking the countryside. The church is interesting because it shows Saint James in his three traditional forms: the pilgrim, the apostle, and the Moor-slayer.
There’s also a good place in town, Albergue La Morena. It mixes a hotel and an albergue and is set in a restored 300-year-old building. Inside, it’s modern and feels a bit more luxurious than most pilgrim stops.
Terradillos de los Templarios
374.1 KM to Santiago
Terradillos de los Templarios is just 2 km beyond Ledigos. It’s a small village with a bit of history — the Knights Templar set up here in the 12th century to help protect pilgrims. The name means “small lands of the Templars,” a nod to the days when they ran things around here.
There are a couple of albergues in the village. I stayed at Albergue Jacques de Molay, named after the last Grand Master of the Templars. It’s a good spot.
Moratinos
370.9 KM to Santiago
After a few more kilometres, you’ll arrive in Moratinos. Just outside the village, you’ll see a group of small grassy hills with doors built into them. They’re old wine cellars, but they look like something out of a hobbit movie — or for any British readers the set of the Teletubbies.
There are two albergues in Moratinos. The first is Hostal Moratinos, just on your left as you come into the village. It’s a fun spot with a good menu. The second is Hospital San Bruno, at the far end of town. Keep an eye out — it’s about 100 yards off the Camino as you’re leaving and has a big Italian flag painted on the wall. They’ve got a lovely garden with sun loungers and a place to soak your feet. Pietro was running it when I stayed, and the food was brilliant. After days of paella and the usual pilgrim fare, sitting down to real Italian food was a treat.
San Nicolás del Real Camino
368.3 KM to Santiago
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Sahagún
360.7 KM to Santiago
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The Pilgrim’s Office: Your First Stop
Bercianos del Real Camino
350.6 KM to Santiago
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The Pilgrim’s Office: Your First Stop
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El Burgo Ranero
343.1 KM to Santiago
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Calzada de Coto
356.7 KM to Santiago
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Calzadilla de la los Hermanillos
348.2 KM to Santiago
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Reliegos
330.4 KM to Santiago
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Mansilla de las Mulas
324.5 KM to Santiago
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León
305.7 KM to Santiago
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